Horses need to live in a safe environment, but it is not all about just feeding them and giving them shelter. You must consider your horse as a sensitive animal that would react to its conditions, and needs specific care in order to live a long and healthy life.
Here is a check list of the different aspects to cover, in order to help you to provide your horse with the best possible horse care/maintenance.
1. Living space, the barns, or stables, must be clean daily to avoid contamination. Also the horse needs room to exercise, so open spaces are a must. Some owners that don't own them can rent areas for horses to exercise.
2. Feeding, it is recommended that the horse feed two or three times a day, instead of having just one big meal, unless it is on permanent pastures. Food can vary from grass, hey, concentrate grains, to the famous pellets, which are a combination of grains and supplements that can make life easier for some owners, by helping them to provide the horse with a high nutritional value meals.
3. Protection from the elements, some horses might need more help than others getting by the winter, or dealing with the heat of summer. This is why you can use the help of specially designed sheets to either cool or warm your horse.
4. Grooming, regularly groomed horses have healthier and better looking coats, the key is in getting the right grooming tools for your horse's coat. This is a great way to gain your horse's trust, and it should be done as often as possible, especially before a riding trip. By doing this you can check for injuries or dirt, and is a good sign of proper horse care/maintenance.
5. Health, your horse should have regular veterinary checkups, and be given supplements or vitamins when necessary. You must supervise all aspects of your horse's health, and that includes dental care and parasite control. Also it is essential to count with a first Aid kit.
These are the 5 areas that cover most of your horse's life, if you can manage these areas properly, than you are doing things right in horse care/ maintenance to provide a happy and full life. Each area requires close attention and dedication, but only proper care is the only way to have a healthy, happy horse, that you can ride for years and years to come.
Care for your horse by getting the essential items you'll need such as equestrian equipment like horse rugs.
by: Phil Adams-Wright
2011年1月29日星期六
5 Tips to Ensure Horse Riding Safety
There is almost nothing as good, as the marvellous feeling of freedom that riding a horse provides, the reconnection with nature, the speed, or the calmness, the smell of fresh air, and the partnership with such a majestic animal, make horse riding an amazing experience. But, if you don't take the necessary measures to ensure horse riding safety you can be in a lot of trouble.
The following five tips can help you to avoid unnecessary problems and accidents when horse riding.
1. Check your horse's saddle/horse tack before leaving the stables. Check for tearing, make sure the horse is comfortable, that everything fits, and that everything is where it should be. A happy horse is the best way to horse riding safety.
2. Check your own clothing, don't even try to go out riding without the proper helmet, or equipment. And check the good state of these as well, because a cracking helmet won't be of help if you were to fall.
3. Emergency and first aid kit, if something was to happen make sure you have some first aid kit with you, for both you and the horse. Also phone numbers, not just your doctors, but also the veterinarian's.
4. Don't try tricks you don't know when out on a horse, just relax and do what you can do, even if it means just sitting and letting the horse walk. Don't rush a horse if you don't know how to control it yet. And in this case don't go out riding on your own, because horses can be unpredictable creatures especially if ridden by inexperience riders.
5. Know your surroundings, don't adventure into an unknown area with your horse, believe it or not, they also get scared and are very sensitive to their environment. So explore the place you want to go to without the horse first, and don't force the horse to terrains that are to new for it.
These simple tips, along with other basic rules, like only riding a well rested and calm horse, are the golden rules of horse riding safety. You and your horse can enjoy a great riding day if you take proper precautions and know what you are doing.
Just remember that you are the only one who can take care of yourself both before the ride, and once on the horse you will have to trust each other, which reminds me, don't ever ride an animal you don't trust, because it won't trust you either.
Various stable supplies are essential to the safety of you and your horse including equestrian boots and riding helmets, buy them online to make sure that you are safe when riding.
by: Phil Adams-Wright
The following five tips can help you to avoid unnecessary problems and accidents when horse riding.
1. Check your horse's saddle/horse tack before leaving the stables. Check for tearing, make sure the horse is comfortable, that everything fits, and that everything is where it should be. A happy horse is the best way to horse riding safety.
2. Check your own clothing, don't even try to go out riding without the proper helmet, or equipment. And check the good state of these as well, because a cracking helmet won't be of help if you were to fall.
3. Emergency and first aid kit, if something was to happen make sure you have some first aid kit with you, for both you and the horse. Also phone numbers, not just your doctors, but also the veterinarian's.
4. Don't try tricks you don't know when out on a horse, just relax and do what you can do, even if it means just sitting and letting the horse walk. Don't rush a horse if you don't know how to control it yet. And in this case don't go out riding on your own, because horses can be unpredictable creatures especially if ridden by inexperience riders.
5. Know your surroundings, don't adventure into an unknown area with your horse, believe it or not, they also get scared and are very sensitive to their environment. So explore the place you want to go to without the horse first, and don't force the horse to terrains that are to new for it.
These simple tips, along with other basic rules, like only riding a well rested and calm horse, are the golden rules of horse riding safety. You and your horse can enjoy a great riding day if you take proper precautions and know what you are doing.
Just remember that you are the only one who can take care of yourself both before the ride, and once on the horse you will have to trust each other, which reminds me, don't ever ride an animal you don't trust, because it won't trust you either.
Various stable supplies are essential to the safety of you and your horse including equestrian boots and riding helmets, buy them online to make sure that you are safe when riding.
by: Phil Adams-Wright
2011年1月26日星期三
8 Tips to Remember When Buying Hunting Binoculars
When you go out to buy a set of binoculars, it is always best to know what you are going to use them for. Hunting binoculars will have different features than a pair of birding binoculars or marine binoculars. The best binoculars for hunting are not the same as the best binoculars for watching a ball game. You must choose wisely, know the features that will best suit your interests and know what your price range is. You can buy binoculars for $19.95 or you can buy them for $1995.00, it’s all up to you. But the binoculars that are $19.95 aren’t going to be better than the binoculars which cost more. You usually get what you pay for.
Here are a few tips to remember when buying hunting binoculars.
The overall aim is to prepare you for the task of finding the right pair of binoculars, at the right price, without compromising on features that you may require.
Eight Hunting Binocular Tips
- Hunting binoculars should be rugged. You don’t want a binocular that will break or be destroyed by water. Try to get a pair that is armour coated with rubber, is waterproof and fog proof.
- A good hunting binocular needs to have good light gathering ability. Many hunters hunt at the break of dawn or at sunset, when the light isn’t as good as it is during the day. A good pair of binoculars can help with this problem. The most popular binoculars for hunters are sizes 8 X 40 – 42 or 10X40 – 42, because of their good magnification power and light gathering ability.
- The weight of the binocular should concern you. When hunting, you will carry around your binoculars with you, sometimes for hours. You don’t want to carry around a set of binoculars that weigh a ton.
- Cost is always a concern—unless you’re fabulously rich. You should always spend as much money on hunting binoculars as you can afford. The cheaper the binocular, the cheaper the manufacturing costs, the cheaper the overall product. You want your binoculars to last for years, not days.
- Do you want a laser rangefinder? Some binoculars come with a laser range finder. This gadget makes it possible to shoot a laser at your target, and calculate the distance. Just remember, that a binocular equipped with a range finder, will probably cost much more than a binocular without it.
- Ask questions and be informed. Make sure you check out some binocular reviews and that you ask the salespeople pertinent questions. Know your stuff, before you walk into the store.
- Binocular accessories are always a plus. Make sure you know what binocular accessories you want, or need, before going to the store to buy. For example, if you know you’ll need a binocular strap, make sure the binocular you buy comes equipped with one.
- Warranties are important. Make sure that you can bring the binoculars back, if they don’t suit your needs. Testing your hunting binoculars in the store is a hell of a lot different than testing them in the field. Also, try to buy binoculars that have a manufacturer’s warranty.
More Info . . .
Remember, that the best binoculars for hunting depend on what animal you will be hunting. Binoculars for deer hunting might not be the best for hunting rabbits.
Take the time to do the research; it could save you hundreds of dollars. Know what you want before you enter the binocular store, and that way you will be able to ask very direct questions and the salespeople will be able to help you better. Not only that, but it limits the chances of getting ripped off.
Ask hunters what binoculars they use. Their insight can be invaluable. After all, they hunt all of the time!
by: Scott Gray
The advantages of the spotting scope over binoculars
For an avid hunter, his hunting equipment can make the difference between a hit and a miss; a prize catch or a missed trophy animal that missed you by a few yards! Small wonder then that spotting scopes are fast gaining popularity among regular outdoors enthusiasts. A spotting scope is a compact telescope designed largely for terrestrial observing and is used in applications that involve magnifications beyond the range of a typical binocular. Compact and powerful, these optical instruments ensure that you are spot on - always!
There are many instances when a pair of usual 7x to 10x binoculars can be inadequate either because of lack of magnification or clarity. This is where a spotting scope comes in handy. Spotting scopes offer more magnification than binoculars and can help you locate targets at extreme distances that can be missed by observers with binoculars. Generally sold with zoom type eyepieces in either 15-45x or 20-60x magnifications and used with a tripod for stability, these will allow you to identify or observe animals at distances beyond the reach of your binoculars.
Uses of spotting scopes
Spotting scopes are perfectly suited for activities like hunting, long distance bird watching and nature study, telephotography, scenic observing, long distance microscopy, beginning astronomy and surveillance. Depending on the type and design of the spotting scope, the magnification can range from about 10X to 250X, using either fixed or zoom eyepieces. Whether you use it to identify a game buck at long range, observe migrating crane in the winters or spot bullet groups at the range, a spotting scope will augment your pleasure in the outdoors.
Types of spotting scopes
In addition to magnification, spotting scopes can also vary depending upon their design. There are two basic body designs - straight and angled. With straight scopes, the barrel and the eyepiece are parallel, while in angled scopes the eyepiece is 45º from the barrel axis so as to bend the light path. Each design has its own pros and cons and the choice of scope boils down to how you want to use it. Here are the advantages of each design:
Angled Spotting Scope
- Easier to share with a group
- Higher eye point means you can use a shorter tripod
- Better for spotting tree top or hiding animals.
Straight Spotting Scope
- Easier to aim for beginners
- Easier for viewing animals on the ground.
- Less strain on your neck for level viewing
Advantages of using spotting scopes
Though there are many advantages of spotting scopes over binoculars, one of the primary one is that a scope allows you to observe sensitive species such as deer and bucks from friendly distances. As more and more people take to the field, it is becoming increasingly important to watch in ways that are minimally disruptive and stressful to wildlife. The magnification of spotting scopes allows you to do that and makes scopes ideal for any nature activity in wild!
Finding an animal in a large herd
Imagine locating a Golden Lion Tamarin sucking on his mother among thousands of animals in the wild or the Black Buck nestled among thousands of deer and other wild animals! Finding it using binoculars is can be a trying task, and there's no guarantee that you might finally be able to see it at all. But with a spotting scope, simply by virtue of its higher magnification, you can easily spot the elusive animal. Chasing rarities with these scopes is a pleasure!
Locate an animal in its hiding place
Some animals visit certain places only for a few hours or days in a year and are often on the move. Never staying still they are constantly pushing ardent hunters and nature watchers to the edge. Equipped with spotting scopes, you can spot a movement on the ground or air, from even as far as 200-300 yards away, and capture that mysterious animal in your scope, before it runs away, never to be seen for a long time.
Distinguish between similar species
The simplest way to spot different species of animals in the wild is by some color distinctions. However on a dark, overcast day, when the colors are nonexistent, poor lighting means that you will be not be able to spot the differences without close proximity. A spotting scope with its clarity and magnification can make this assignment successful and memorable. You can observe the animals without getting too close to scare them away!
Identifying look-alike animals
Distinguishing between look-alike animals can be a daunting task, especially for newer wildlife enthusiasts. Sometimes different species have such similar coloration and patterns that's it is absolutely essential to zoom to the closest possible frame to make the distinction. And once again, spotting scopes have a definite edge over binoculars. With unbelievable clarity, scopes offer much better results than binoculars!
In other words, spotting scopes can help you spot a an animal in a large group, trace where it is hiding, spot distant animals, distinguish between similar species, and identify look-alike animals. In addition, spotting scopes can also be used for recording images and not just plain viewing. One of the most popular uses of spotting scopes in addition to spotting is telephotography.
Telephotography
We all love bright, high-contrast images with true-to-life colors. To capture your sightings for years, nowadays most models of spotting scopes offer the capability to use the spotting scope lens as a telephoto lens. The optical design and configuration of the scope and the available accessories determine its performance and effectiveness for this purpose. As opposed to a camera telephoto lens, spotting scopes usually operate at much higher magnifications and at a fixed aperture or f/number, and need more stability and a higher speed film plus slower shutter speed options for correct exposure.
Digiscoping
Imagine capturing wildlife in its purest form, and being able to save it for later viewing! Now you can - digiscoping is here. Defined as a spotting scope with a digital imaging system, this remarkable spotting scope has a built-in imaging system and optical beam splitter for simultaneous visual and electronic monitoring. All images are output to a standard RGB signal that lets you view images on a TV, camcorder, computer, LCD viewing screen or a digital camera in amazing detail. Simply put, digiscoping is perfect for recording list birds or tracking the trophy elk you've been pursuing for years.
Though spotting scopes have many advantages over binoculars, yet some hunters avoid spotting scopes because they find these more complex to use than binoculars. Scopes do offer a higher magnification but at the cost of the field of view. Plus, the discomfort of one-eyed observing can make them a little difficult to use at first. But with a little practice all these obstacles can be mastered. Any hunter who can use binoculars can learn to use a spotting scope and trust us, the catch will be worth it!
TIP: Generally, the best way to use a spotting scope while hunting is as a back up to your binoculars. Use the binoculars to find game, and the scope to identify what you've found but cant make out clearly. Try not to use your scope as your primary glassing tool since this may tire you out too soon, especially if you are a novice. Remember when using your scope, it's much easier to initially find things in the image by turning the power down to its lowest point and using the widest possible field of view.
Picking the right spotting scope
A spotting scope is a sure way to open new hunting opportunities for you. Whether you observe in the great wide open or locally at your city park, a spotting scope will add a new dimension to your game. If you anticipate any field use of the scope, investing in a waterproof scope would save you a lot of hassle. Hardcore hunters also appreciate strong construction and preferably nitrogen filled optics so they won't fog up.
Plus, always remember that usability is equally important in spotting scopes. A good spotting scope should live up to the elements but it shouldn't be too heavy to carry. Furthermore, it should be easy to focus and usable on a car window mount, for those times when you dare not step out of the vehicle and disturb the natural world. Built-in, slide-out sunshades and easy-to-use lens caps will also help a lot. Last but not least, a good scope needs a good tripod to help you keep steady.
There is no doubt that with spotting scopes, magnifying is perfected. Spotting scopes have mastered the task of bringing distant objects closer and even storing them as photographs or digital images. Not only do they range widely in capability and price, but also offer more steadiness and clarity than a binocular with the style of a telescope. Here's wishing you lots of amazing and extraordinary sightings with yours!
by: Garima Sharma
About the Author:
Garima Sharma is a successful freelance writer offering guidance and suggestions for consumers regarding binoculars, rifle scopes, spotting scopes. Her many articles give information and tips to help people save money and make smarter decisions.
2011年1月25日星期二
The Horse Whisperer In You
Is there a Horse Whisperer in you? According to Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, the definition of a Horse Whisperer is a horse handler who adopts a sympathetic view of the motives, needs, and desires of the horse, based on natural horsemanship and modern equine psychology.
Body language is a great communicator between the horse and the handler. Horses use ear and head positions, showing of teeth, swinging of hips and speed of movement to communicate. Recognizing the signs of fear or threat to build trust between the horse and the handler is vital to communication.
Horse Whisperers understand that fear, pain and distrust do not result in a relationship that will benefit the horse or the handler. After all, the object is for the horse to be calm and feel safe throughout the training process. A horse that feels safe will bond with the handler and the results can be remarkable.
Whenever I hear the term "Horse Whisperer", I first think of my grandfather who was well known for his unique ability with horses especially those considered difficult, dangerous or at times, ready for shipment to the glue factory. I used to watch him from a distance as he approached each new arrival facing the magnificent animal with calmness, patience, and great presence.
He always began the introduction by slowly walking around the small coral never turning his back from the horse. His steps were equally paced and his eyes were locked in with those of the horse. I watched as the horse turned to face my grandfather and was always a gasp away as I wondered if horse would charge.
When a horse would become uncomfortable or seem to begin a charge, my grandfather would hold his ground and stand still facing the animal with quiet strength and resolve and eventually the horse would calm and the dance between the two would begin again.
The second phase of training began by encouraging the horse to run away as my grandfather made loud noises and large flapping hand movements. This seemed an odd way to build on the trust they had developed but my grandfather explained he was giving the horse the choice to flee or follow. Unlike most traditional horse training techniques where the trainer demands that the horse be subservient, my grandfather was giving the horse a choice.
The training was complete when my grandfather turned his back on the horse and, through body language alone, invited the animal to follow. To my amazement,equine, the horse would follow - head down - slowly inching toward my grandfather in quiet submission. This act was proof that the horse somehow understood my grandfather�s intentions were not to harm him but rather to communicate.
My grandfather would later teach me many important lessons over the years but his horse training techniques taught me at a very young age that through kindness and the sincere desire to understand the needs of another we can develop and nurture a relationship with animals as well as each other. Now you may wonder, Western Bits, how can I develop these techniques for myself? In order to create the proper training environment between yourself and the horse, I recommend the following:
� Adopt a sympathetic view of the motives, needs, and desires of the horse.
� Use and interpret body language to communicate.
� Establish eye contact with the horse.
� Approach the horse with calmness, patience, and great presence.
� Recognize the signs of fear and threat to build trust between the horse and you.
� In the face of adversity hold your ground with quiet strength and resolve.
� Give the horse the choice to flee or follow.
Body language is a great communicator between the horse and the handler. Horses use ear and head positions, showing of teeth, swinging of hips and speed of movement to communicate. Recognizing the signs of fear or threat to build trust between the horse and the handler is vital to communication.
Horse Whisperers understand that fear, pain and distrust do not result in a relationship that will benefit the horse or the handler. After all, the object is for the horse to be calm and feel safe throughout the training process. A horse that feels safe will bond with the handler and the results can be remarkable.
Whenever I hear the term "Horse Whisperer", I first think of my grandfather who was well known for his unique ability with horses especially those considered difficult, dangerous or at times, ready for shipment to the glue factory. I used to watch him from a distance as he approached each new arrival facing the magnificent animal with calmness, patience, and great presence.
He always began the introduction by slowly walking around the small coral never turning his back from the horse. His steps were equally paced and his eyes were locked in with those of the horse. I watched as the horse turned to face my grandfather and was always a gasp away as I wondered if horse would charge.
When a horse would become uncomfortable or seem to begin a charge, my grandfather would hold his ground and stand still facing the animal with quiet strength and resolve and eventually the horse would calm and the dance between the two would begin again.
The second phase of training began by encouraging the horse to run away as my grandfather made loud noises and large flapping hand movements. This seemed an odd way to build on the trust they had developed but my grandfather explained he was giving the horse the choice to flee or follow. Unlike most traditional horse training techniques where the trainer demands that the horse be subservient, my grandfather was giving the horse a choice.
The training was complete when my grandfather turned his back on the horse and, through body language alone, invited the animal to follow. To my amazement,equine, the horse would follow - head down - slowly inching toward my grandfather in quiet submission. This act was proof that the horse somehow understood my grandfather�s intentions were not to harm him but rather to communicate.
My grandfather would later teach me many important lessons over the years but his horse training techniques taught me at a very young age that through kindness and the sincere desire to understand the needs of another we can develop and nurture a relationship with animals as well as each other. Now you may wonder, Western Bits, how can I develop these techniques for myself? In order to create the proper training environment between yourself and the horse, I recommend the following:
� Adopt a sympathetic view of the motives, needs, and desires of the horse.
� Use and interpret body language to communicate.
� Establish eye contact with the horse.
� Approach the horse with calmness, patience, and great presence.
� Recognize the signs of fear and threat to build trust between the horse and you.
� In the face of adversity hold your ground with quiet strength and resolve.
� Give the horse the choice to flee or follow.
Tree Stand Safety
One of the best advantages a hunter can get when hunting whitetail deer is doing so from an elevated position. In most hunting scenarios, to achieve this elevated height, it is easiest to do so with a tree stand. Modern tree stands are very safe when used the proper way. Follow all manufactures guidelines on care and upkeep of your tree stand. Failure to do so can result in serious injury or death. To help prevent injury from tree stand accidents, follow these safety guidelines.
Get familiar with your equipment
Read and follow all factory recommended procedures concerning your tree stand. Practice using your stand on a tree close to the ground to help you to become more comfortable with the mechanics and functions of the stand. I always keep all related safety equipment in a bag attached to the stand. You do not want to make it to your hunting spot before you realize you have left key safety parts behind. It is in times like these that hunters decide to skip key safety steps. The decision to hunt unsafe might just be your last.
Always use your safety equipment
Use a safety harness when hunting from elevated tree stands. Again read and follow all recommended procedures. Never use a rope to replace your safety belt portion that is attached to the tree. I recommend a full body harness. In the event of a fall while wearing a full body harness your body will be facing straight up. If you are properly attached to the tree you would only fall 8 to 10 inches. This will allow you to easily pull yourself back up onto your stand.
Never carry equipment with you while climbing
Use a haul line to raise or lower your gear. Make sure guns and crossbows are unloaded before raising or lowering them from the ground. Make sure your haul line is sturdy enough to withstand the weight of a gun, crossbow, and any other gear you plan to pull up to your stand.
Check permanent tree stands every year before hunting
Do not use homemade tree stands. These stands are not only difficult to move when deer change their trails, but these stands often deteriorate quickly and often are unsafe even when newly installed. Remember that weakened wooden steps and stands can kill and cripple hunters. Even pressure treated wood gets slippery overtime. Read and understand recommended procedures when installing commercial stands. Straps or chains sometimes are recommended to be changed in as little as 12 months of use. When installing never put all your weight on a single branch. Keep at least one hand and one foot on a secure place when reaching for the next hold. Climb higher than the stand and step down onto it. Climbing up onto it can dislodge it and cause accidents. Each time you hunt from a permanent stand make a visual check to confirm everything is in its place.
Know the Rules
On public land in most states it is illegal to place nails or other hardware into trees, or to build permanent structures, such as tree stands, platforms and blinds. On private land always get the landowners permission before you cut limbs, remove trees or alter their landscape in any way.
Check portable tree stands before hunting
Inspect portable stands for loose nuts and bolts before each use. Make sure to choose only healthy, living trees when using climbing devices. Rough-barked trees are always best. It gives the teeth and straps on your stand something to grab onto. Do not use a tree that is rotten or has dead limbs. Don’t go too high. The likelihood of a serious injury escalates if you fall from high up. Usually, 15 to 20 feet is high enough to give the hunter an advantage above the whitetails line of sight.
Use updated equipment
You might save a few bucks on an older used tree stand but you are putting your health at risk. Tree stand equipment manufactured today is solid, safe and secure. The $50 you save on a harness or stand will not help you much when it comes to calculating your hospital or burial expenses.
Plan ahead
Tell a dependable person where you’re hunting and when you plan to return. Map your whereabouts and leave a note at camp, at home or in your vehicle so that you can be found in case of an emergency. If your like me you already carry enough equipment into the woods. But i also think it would be wise to have a whistle, first aid kit, good flashlight and cell phone just in case of an emergency situation.
A successful hunt always coincides with a safe hunt. Safety should be your number one priority when going on a hunting trip. Always remember safety first.
extract from: www.deerhuntersclub.com
Get familiar with your equipment
Read and follow all factory recommended procedures concerning your tree stand. Practice using your stand on a tree close to the ground to help you to become more comfortable with the mechanics and functions of the stand. I always keep all related safety equipment in a bag attached to the stand. You do not want to make it to your hunting spot before you realize you have left key safety parts behind. It is in times like these that hunters decide to skip key safety steps. The decision to hunt unsafe might just be your last.
Always use your safety equipment
Use a safety harness when hunting from elevated tree stands. Again read and follow all recommended procedures. Never use a rope to replace your safety belt portion that is attached to the tree. I recommend a full body harness. In the event of a fall while wearing a full body harness your body will be facing straight up. If you are properly attached to the tree you would only fall 8 to 10 inches. This will allow you to easily pull yourself back up onto your stand.
Never carry equipment with you while climbing
Use a haul line to raise or lower your gear. Make sure guns and crossbows are unloaded before raising or lowering them from the ground. Make sure your haul line is sturdy enough to withstand the weight of a gun, crossbow, and any other gear you plan to pull up to your stand.
Check permanent tree stands every year before hunting
Do not use homemade tree stands. These stands are not only difficult to move when deer change their trails, but these stands often deteriorate quickly and often are unsafe even when newly installed. Remember that weakened wooden steps and stands can kill and cripple hunters. Even pressure treated wood gets slippery overtime. Read and understand recommended procedures when installing commercial stands. Straps or chains sometimes are recommended to be changed in as little as 12 months of use. When installing never put all your weight on a single branch. Keep at least one hand and one foot on a secure place when reaching for the next hold. Climb higher than the stand and step down onto it. Climbing up onto it can dislodge it and cause accidents. Each time you hunt from a permanent stand make a visual check to confirm everything is in its place.
Know the Rules
On public land in most states it is illegal to place nails or other hardware into trees, or to build permanent structures, such as tree stands, platforms and blinds. On private land always get the landowners permission before you cut limbs, remove trees or alter their landscape in any way.
Check portable tree stands before hunting
Inspect portable stands for loose nuts and bolts before each use. Make sure to choose only healthy, living trees when using climbing devices. Rough-barked trees are always best. It gives the teeth and straps on your stand something to grab onto. Do not use a tree that is rotten or has dead limbs. Don’t go too high. The likelihood of a serious injury escalates if you fall from high up. Usually, 15 to 20 feet is high enough to give the hunter an advantage above the whitetails line of sight.
Use updated equipment
You might save a few bucks on an older used tree stand but you are putting your health at risk. Tree stand equipment manufactured today is solid, safe and secure. The $50 you save on a harness or stand will not help you much when it comes to calculating your hospital or burial expenses.
Plan ahead
Tell a dependable person where you’re hunting and when you plan to return. Map your whereabouts and leave a note at camp, at home or in your vehicle so that you can be found in case of an emergency. If your like me you already carry enough equipment into the woods. But i also think it would be wise to have a whistle, first aid kit, good flashlight and cell phone just in case of an emergency situation.
A successful hunt always coincides with a safe hunt. Safety should be your number one priority when going on a hunting trip. Always remember safety first.
extract from: www.deerhuntersclub.com
2011年1月24日星期一
Selecting The Right Guide Outfitter For Your Hunt
If you wish to experience a successful hunting trip, you must plan in advance. Before anything else, you need to decide the type of game you intend to go pursue i.e. bear, caribou, deer, antelope, moose, or elk . Your preparations should include researching areas where you intend to hunt for your trophy animal. Your plan must include applying for and obtaining the necessary permits in time. However, none of this relieves you from the all-important task of selecting the right outfitter for your hunting trip, which is a daunting task in itself.
If you hear people say that an outfitted trip is meant only for the unskilled hunter, do not let it deter you from seeking out a good outfitter. Hiring a professional outfitter/guide can simplify your preparations and enable you to gain access to prime hunting areas and new vistas of outdoor adventure that may never have opened had it not been for the professional operator.
However, you must be circumspect in your selection of the outfitter. The Internet can be a great resource to provide you with credible information about many reputed outfitters, most of whom maintain a presence on the web. Begin your search by using the name of the region/area you prefer for your hunt and the particular species of game as keywords. Do not be swayed by the grandeur of a website. The quality of the outfitter may not match the quality of the site. You may also try contacting a hunting consultant or booking agent as they are more commonly referred to. Booking agents usually have booths at sportsman's shows or can be found by making a web search. As they promote a number of outfitters, you have a better chance of making a comprehensive survey of what different outfitters have on offer and select a good one, to fit your needs and budget. It will increase your expenses though, because booking agent commissions will also come out of your hunting fee.
Once you decide on an outfitter you will then need to contact him. Your initial contact will get you the most important information if you speak to the hunt operator directly. When you manage to talk to the right person, make sure to ask about all that is provided against the price you will pay; whether it covers accommodation, meals, equipment, transport, travel etc. What is the mode of transport involved in the trip such as planes, boats, all wheel drive vehicles, trucks etc. and whether the fees cover expediting relevant licenses or not.
The next thing to ask about is the size of their operations i.e. how many clients the outfitter helps every year. Checking success ratios can be advantageous in choosing the right outfitter. However, many present twisted statistics to support their sales pitch. There are some who term a wounded animal as a success. Ask for several client references checking for successful hunters and speak to them. This will provide a much clearer picture of the real success rates and the quality of services of an outfitter. It is also important to ask outfitters about the length of time that they have been in business and whether there has been anything that can be termed as a serious problem in their dealings with clients.
Although every businessperson would say their services are the best, be sure to ask what service you should expect when you make a booking with them. Make a note of the details and check if they have a brochure. Ask the outfitter to send you one along with any other additional information he may have with respect to preparations for the hunt. Many outfitters will send you a kit that has a lot of useful information after you book with them. Compare its contents with whatever information was given to you during the conversation.
Getting the right outfitter is crucial to the success of your hunt. Take care to select the best one for an enjoyable hunting trip.
by Justin Ott
If you hear people say that an outfitted trip is meant only for the unskilled hunter, do not let it deter you from seeking out a good outfitter. Hiring a professional outfitter/guide can simplify your preparations and enable you to gain access to prime hunting areas and new vistas of outdoor adventure that may never have opened had it not been for the professional operator.
However, you must be circumspect in your selection of the outfitter. The Internet can be a great resource to provide you with credible information about many reputed outfitters, most of whom maintain a presence on the web. Begin your search by using the name of the region/area you prefer for your hunt and the particular species of game as keywords. Do not be swayed by the grandeur of a website. The quality of the outfitter may not match the quality of the site. You may also try contacting a hunting consultant or booking agent as they are more commonly referred to. Booking agents usually have booths at sportsman's shows or can be found by making a web search. As they promote a number of outfitters, you have a better chance of making a comprehensive survey of what different outfitters have on offer and select a good one, to fit your needs and budget. It will increase your expenses though, because booking agent commissions will also come out of your hunting fee.
Once you decide on an outfitter you will then need to contact him. Your initial contact will get you the most important information if you speak to the hunt operator directly. When you manage to talk to the right person, make sure to ask about all that is provided against the price you will pay; whether it covers accommodation, meals, equipment, transport, travel etc. What is the mode of transport involved in the trip such as planes, boats, all wheel drive vehicles, trucks etc. and whether the fees cover expediting relevant licenses or not.
The next thing to ask about is the size of their operations i.e. how many clients the outfitter helps every year. Checking success ratios can be advantageous in choosing the right outfitter. However, many present twisted statistics to support their sales pitch. There are some who term a wounded animal as a success. Ask for several client references checking for successful hunters and speak to them. This will provide a much clearer picture of the real success rates and the quality of services of an outfitter. It is also important to ask outfitters about the length of time that they have been in business and whether there has been anything that can be termed as a serious problem in their dealings with clients.
Although every businessperson would say their services are the best, be sure to ask what service you should expect when you make a booking with them. Make a note of the details and check if they have a brochure. Ask the outfitter to send you one along with any other additional information he may have with respect to preparations for the hunt. Many outfitters will send you a kit that has a lot of useful information after you book with them. Compare its contents with whatever information was given to you during the conversation.
Getting the right outfitter is crucial to the success of your hunt. Take care to select the best one for an enjoyable hunting trip.
by Justin Ott
Hunting Equipment Tips and Tricks
Binoculars - One of the most important pieces of equipment a hunter needs while on a hunting trip. A person who spends a great deal of time outdoors definitely needs to have a good pair of binoculars. Hunting binoculars are made for hunters who hunt in the highlands or in the bush, giving them a great advantage to spot, stalk and shoot the animal.
Unlike a telescope, binoculars give users a three-dimensional image adding perception of depth while viewing distant objects magnified many times over. Essentially there are two types of binoculars Porro prism and Roof prism. Porro prism binoculars are wide, the objective lenses are well separated, but off center from the eyepiece.
Roof prism binoculars have objective lenses that are more or less aligned with the eyepieces. They are more compact, narrow, and costlier than Porro prisms binoculars. Major European optical manufacturers like Leica, Zeiss and Swarovski manufacture only roof prism binoculars.
Optical parameters
Magnification in layman term is the magnifying power of the binocular: e.g. in an 8 x 40 binocular. The figure (8) indicates the magnifying power. This means the object is magnified by 8x, so that the object appears eight times nearer than it actually is. The figure (40) indicates the width of the objective lens at the far end measured in millimeters. A wider lens will admit more light into the binocular, resulting in a brighter image than a 8 x 20 model.
Magnification in layman term is the magnifying power of the binocular: e.g. in an 8 x 40 binocular. The figure (8) indicates the magnifying power. This means the object is magnified by 8x, so that the object appears eight times nearer than it actually is. The figure (40) indicates the width of the objective lens at the far end measured in millimeters. A wider lens will admit more light into the binocular, resulting in a brighter image than a 8 x 20 model.
Exit pupil diameter or EPD: Exit pupil diameter is amount of light that rea
ches the eye. It is calculated by dividing the diameter of the lens at the far end by the magnification, so in this case the EPD is 5. During dawn and dusk binoculars with a higher EPD are recommended and in bright sunlight a lower EPD binocular is advisable.
Prisms: Porro prism binoculars are bulkier and heavier than Roof prism binoculars, which are more compact, smaller and lighter.
Objective lens Magnifying lens of a binocular is coated to reduce the loss of light and also to reduce the glare. There are four types of coating available.
Coated: The surface of lens at the far end is coated with a single layer.
Fully coated: A single layer of coating is on all air to glass surfaces.
Multi-coated: the lens on the far end has multiple layers of coatings.
Fully Multi-coated: All air to glass surfaces have multiple layers of coat.
Field of view: It is the width of the panoramic view when observed from 1000 yards or 1000 meters. It is also expressed in an angular value as to how many degrees can be viewed. For looking at objects that are smaller a narrower field of view is preferred and when scanning a landscape a wider field of vision is preferred.
Focus
Some binoculars have focus preset to infinity and adjustments are not required the focus range will be 20meters to infinity. However to observe objects at shorter distances manual focus are used.
Specialty binoculars
Major American and European manufacturers like Nikon, Bushnell, Leupold, Leica, Zeiss, and Swarovski have a product range of Hunting Binoculars, Military Binoculars, Opera Glasses, Astronomy Binoculars, Marine Binoculars and Birding Binoculars, optics planet.
Hunting Binoculars
There is a vast range of various hunting binoculars available in the market today. Many of the best hunting binoculars manufactured by both the American and European manufacturers can be found in stores that specialize in hunting gear or outdoor equipment. Hunting binoculars come with a number of features that are ideal for various forms of hunting.
There is a vast range of various hunting binoculars available in the market today. Many of the best hunting binoculars manufactured by both the American and European manufacturers can be found in stores that specialize in hunting gear or outdoor equipment. Hunting binoculars come with a number of features that are ideal for various forms of hunting.
Some of the features available on hunting binoculars include a range finder like the Leica Geovid binoculars. A range finder in the binocular allows the hunter to range the distance between him and the animal he is hunting. Most hunters consider a range finder to be a critical piece of equipment. A range finder works by sending out a laser beam to the object, which then bounces off the object and is then sent back to the range finder Visionking telescope binoculars. The range finder binoculars have a micro-processing chip inside that calculates the distance between the viewer and the object.
Weight of the binocular is also important as the roof prism binoculars are lighter and can be held for longer durations without any strain on the arms. Tripods are also recommended when observing for longer durations.
Rubber armoring protects binoculars from bangs. Reading hunting binocular reviews will help in making the right decision about the type of binocular needed for your outdoor trip.
by Justin Ott
2011年1月23日星期日
The Hackamore
A hackamore is a type of bridle without a bit. It is designed to control the horse via pressure points on the nose and chin, instead of using pressure in the mouth like a bit does.
The hackamore is derived from a Spanish tradition, and thus more often seen in western events, although they are also seen in show jumping, eventing, and endurance riding.
There are three main types of hackamores: the mechanical hackamore, the side-pull, and the bosal.
The bosal is a mild and "true" hackamore, meaning it does not work off of leverage. It balances on the horse's nose and uses pressure on the nose and jaws to direct the horse. It is often used on young horses because it is very mild. The bosal consists of a thick, stiff noseband with a knot at the bottom where both reins attach. The reins on a bosal are traditionally called mecate, and are often made of horsehair. Even though it is mild, a bosal is best used by an experienced horseman with light hands.
The mechanical hackamore is sometimes not considered a "true" hackmore because it works off of leverage.
It consists of a stiff rope or leather over the nose, with two metal shanks, and a chin strap or curb chain. Like a curb bit, the severity of the hackamore will increase with the length of the shanks.
The mechanical hackamore is one of the most harsh, because it works off of leverage unlike other "true" hackamores. A rider must be gentle and use soft hands since this type of hackamore works off of leverage and can easily injure a horse's sensitive face. A mechanical hackamore with a sniff nose or curb chain should always be wrapped in a soft material to provide padding. Vetwrap is often used over rope nosebands or curb chains. A mechanical hackamore is not a good choice for an inexperienced rider because it requires more subtlety.
The side pull is a very mild hackamore which functions much like a halter with a lead rope clipped to each side.
The sidepull is a simple hackamore that consists of a loop of material over the nose and reins that connect directly to the side. It uses direct pressure to control the horse, not leverage, and thus is very mild. The noseband is often leather and has a strap that goes under the jaw of the horse. Because a sidepull is very mild, it is good for inexperienced riders so they do not injure the horse's mouth.
A jumping cavesson is a type of sidepull hackamore that is used often used in English jumping events.
Some horses prefer hackamores to bits. Horses that will not tolerate a bit, or that have had injuries in the mouth, are often ridden in hackamores.
Some riders feel the hackamore is less harsh because it does not involve pressure in the mouth, however a hackamore must still be used with care. Hackamores, if used improperly, can cause just as much damage as a bit can.
Ultimately the choice to use a bit or a hackamore it is up to the horse. Some horses work very well in hackamores while others do not. Some horses however are so sensitive in the mouth that they cannot be ridden in anything other than a hackamore.
Extract from: www.ultimatehorsesite.com
The hackamore is derived from a Spanish tradition, and thus more often seen in western events, although they are also seen in show jumping, eventing, and endurance riding.
There are three main types of hackamores: the mechanical hackamore, the side-pull, and the bosal.
 A horse wearing a bosal hackamore. Source: Wikipedia |
The bosal is a mild and "true" hackamore, meaning it does not work off of leverage. It balances on the horse's nose and uses pressure on the nose and jaws to direct the horse. It is often used on young horses because it is very mild. The bosal consists of a thick, stiff noseband with a knot at the bottom where both reins attach. The reins on a bosal are traditionally called mecate, and are often made of horsehair. Even though it is mild, a bosal is best used by an experienced horseman with light hands.
 Example of a mechanical hackamore. Note the sheepskin that pads the chinstrap. Source: wikipedia |
It consists of a stiff rope or leather over the nose, with two metal shanks, and a chin strap or curb chain. Like a curb bit, the severity of the hackamore will increase with the length of the shanks.
The mechanical hackamore is one of the most harsh, because it works off of leverage unlike other "true" hackamores. A rider must be gentle and use soft hands since this type of hackamore works off of leverage and can easily injure a horse's sensitive face. A mechanical hackamore with a sniff nose or curb chain should always be wrapped in a soft material to provide padding. Vetwrap is often used over rope nosebands or curb chains. A mechanical hackamore is not a good choice for an inexperienced rider because it requires more subtlety.
The sidepull is a simple hackamore that consists of a loop of material over the nose and reins that connect directly to the side. It uses direct pressure to control the horse, not leverage, and thus is very mild. The noseband is often leather and has a strap that goes under the jaw of the horse. Because a sidepull is very mild, it is good for inexperienced riders so they do not injure the horse's mouth.
A jumping cavesson is a type of sidepull hackamore that is used often used in English jumping events.
Some horses prefer hackamores to bits. Horses that will not tolerate a bit, or that have had injuries in the mouth, are often ridden in hackamores.
Some riders feel the hackamore is less harsh because it does not involve pressure in the mouth, however a hackamore must still be used with care. Hackamores, if used improperly, can cause just as much damage as a bit can.
Ultimately the choice to use a bit or a hackamore it is up to the horse. Some horses work very well in hackamores while others do not. Some horses however are so sensitive in the mouth that they cannot be ridden in anything other than a hackamore.
Extract from: www.ultimatehorsesite.com
14-Point Checklist for Horse Evacuation
1. Train your horses to load. Trying to load an untrained horse when stress is high can be dangerous and time consuming.
2. Be able to identify your horses. Take pictures or videos and have written descriptions. Store one set in a safe place (a safe deposit box at a bank is one option) and keep another set with you.
3. If your horse is going to a community rescue site or there is a chance he will become loose have some type of identification on the horse. An identification tag on the halter will work, but microchips, brands or tattoos are more permanent. Be sure your emergency contact information is included on the ID tag.
4. Make sure your truck and trailer are in good working order and packed with needed supplies. Do not use your trailer as a storage unit. If you do not own a trailer, make advance arrangements with several friends or a local hauler who can be contacted at a moment's notice. Don't wait until the emergency to start looking for a way to move your horses.
5. Make sure all health records and registrations papers are in one location and can be moved quickly.
6. Make advance arrangements with several friends who have room for your horses. If this is not possible contact your local fairgrounds or horse facilities to find out their policies for accepting horses during an emergency - have several options available.
7. Know the various routes to the facility to which you are taking the horses. A road may be closed, so have an alternate route in mind.
8. Assign duties, in advance, to the various people who will be helping evacuate the horses. If people know what is expected, things will go smoothly.
9. Leave your contact information in several conspicuous places in your barn, office or house.
10. In the event you are not at home, make arrangements with several friends or neighbors so they can evacuate your horses. Go over your plans and have the information available to them. Keep it up-dated.
11. Pack enough hay, feed, medications, supplements and water (if needed) for several days. Extra buckets should be already packed in the trailer.
12. If you are going to have to make several trips, don't wait until the last evacuate order is issued. Start moving animals out early and give yourself enough time. It is possible if you wait too long, you will not be allowed back in. Use common sense.
13. Don't forget to have an emergency bag packed and ready with your personal items.
14. Prepare a list of important documents you will need and have them readily available. These items would include credit cards, bank account information, horse health insurance cards and check books.
by Eleanor Blazer
2011年1月20日星期四
Measuring for a New Horse Riding Saddle
Buying a new horse riding saddle is an important purchase. If you are a horse rider, the saddle is an essential everyday piece of equipment that will hopefully last you and your horse for many years, but incorrectly fitted horse riding saddles can cause many problems for the horse and for its rider as well as decrease the longevity of the saddle.
Consider a pair of running shoes for an athlete. If their shoes don't fit correctly, rubbing or pinching the feet, or moving around because they are too big then you would expect this to affect their ability to perform. In the same way, the saddle that we put on a horse's back should fit perfectly.
If you are buying a new saddle from a qualified saddler then you would expect them to visit your horse and maybe take some measurements to ensure that the saddle they supply is a perfect fit for your horse, however, there are many other places that you can purchase horse back riding saddles from. With the increased power of the internet, there are many online equine stores supplying quality products for horse and rider and the benefits of the internet are that it allows you to shop around for the best deals with ease and at your convenience. If you are considering ordering your saddle online though, it is important that you have accurate measurements of your horse's back and of the size and width of saddle that you require to avoid having to return the new saddle after it arrives.These measurements can be taken either from an existing saddle that fits the horse well or from the horse directly.
The size of the new horse back riding saddle required depends on the size of the rider and the length of the horses back and is measured on the saddle from the button on the side of the pommel to the middle of the cantle. The saddle should never extend beyond the 18th thoracic vertebrae which is the region of the last rib. If the saddle sits on the lumbar region then this can cause discomfort, pain and movement problems for your horse. It is also important that the new saddle is the right size for the rider. If it is too small then this will be uncomfortable and the rider won't be able to sit down correctly in the saddle, too big and they may slide around in the horse tack and find themselves tipping forwards or back.
The width is most important for the horse, and there are many problems that can be caused by a saddle too narrow or too wide. These can range from pain caused by pinching or bruising to muscle and nerve damage from uneven pressure from the saddle and rider. This is the reason why you must know the correct width measurement required for your new horse back riding saddle. This simple task done before buying a new horse riding saddle can save you a lot of time, money and distress later on and is in the end much better for the horse. So before you order your new horse back riding saddle, ensure that you have some accurate measurements of the saddle that you need.
by: Josie Amani
Consider a pair of running shoes for an athlete. If their shoes don't fit correctly, rubbing or pinching the feet, or moving around because they are too big then you would expect this to affect their ability to perform. In the same way, the saddle that we put on a horse's back should fit perfectly.
If you are buying a new saddle from a qualified saddler then you would expect them to visit your horse and maybe take some measurements to ensure that the saddle they supply is a perfect fit for your horse, however, there are many other places that you can purchase horse back riding saddles from. With the increased power of the internet, there are many online equine stores supplying quality products for horse and rider and the benefits of the internet are that it allows you to shop around for the best deals with ease and at your convenience. If you are considering ordering your saddle online though, it is important that you have accurate measurements of your horse's back and of the size and width of saddle that you require to avoid having to return the new saddle after it arrives.These measurements can be taken either from an existing saddle that fits the horse well or from the horse directly.
The size of the new horse back riding saddle required depends on the size of the rider and the length of the horses back and is measured on the saddle from the button on the side of the pommel to the middle of the cantle. The saddle should never extend beyond the 18th thoracic vertebrae which is the region of the last rib. If the saddle sits on the lumbar region then this can cause discomfort, pain and movement problems for your horse. It is also important that the new saddle is the right size for the rider. If it is too small then this will be uncomfortable and the rider won't be able to sit down correctly in the saddle, too big and they may slide around in the horse tack and find themselves tipping forwards or back.
The width is most important for the horse, and there are many problems that can be caused by a saddle too narrow or too wide. These can range from pain caused by pinching or bruising to muscle and nerve damage from uneven pressure from the saddle and rider. This is the reason why you must know the correct width measurement required for your new horse back riding saddle. This simple task done before buying a new horse riding saddle can save you a lot of time, money and distress later on and is in the end much better for the horse. So before you order your new horse back riding saddle, ensure that you have some accurate measurements of the saddle that you need.
by: Josie Amani
Western Saddle Rigging Demystified
Explanations as to how to rig a western saddle often go into much more detail than is really needed by the recreational rider. Rigging is quite basic in concept although it should be noted that in installing the rigging the saddle maker must be very careful and precise in doing it correctly. While the basic function of the rigging is to attach the saddle to the horse, this must be done correctly.
Ask a little kid (or someone who draws "stick pictures" like I do) to draw a horse with a saddle on it. The cinch will probably be depicted as dropping down from the center of the saddle and going around the middle of the horse's belly. This would seem natural and in fact the "old timey saddles" of the 19th century were essentially rigged this way. It's called Center Fire rigging and requires a rather wide cinch (6-8 inches) to keep the cinch in place.
The evolution of Rigging Design
Like so many other parts of a saddle, the rigging got to where it is today largely through evolution. Someone would change something that needed changing, experiment a bit, and come up with a new "design". Circumstances relating to the use of the saddle would often dictate the need for changes in the approach to the rigging.
With the advent of the saddle horn as an aid in roping, Center Fire rigging was found to have some disadvantages. Rope the calf and stop the horse and the saddle would tend to be pulled forward with the cantle perhaps rising. The answer to the problem was found in Full Rigging where the position of the cinch is directly below the fork or pommel rather than at the center of the seat. Tightening the cinch on a full-rigged saddle actually pulls the saddle forward slightly while also pulling it down so the saddle is pulled into the low part of the horses back. If you look closely at the full-rigged saddle you'll note that the cinch doesn't drop straight down but comes forward at a slight angle, going around the horse's sternum rather than the center of the belly.
Full rigging still had some disadvantages as a roping saddle and as a recreational saddle when traveling over rough terrain. The cantle would tend to rise when going downhill or roping a calf. Texas cowboys are credited with solving the problem by the addition of a billet or back cinch attached in a line below the cantle. Add the back cinch and you have Double Rigging, with a front cinch only you have Single Rigging.
Further refinements were made with either the performance of the horse or comfort of the rider in mind, or both. If your cinch is halfway between the cantle and the pommel you have Center Fire Rigging, if the cinch is under the pommel you have Full Rigging - but you know that already. What if the cinch is three quarters of the way from the cantle? The answer - a Three Quarters Rigged saddle - seven eights of the distance (i.e. about at the rear of the pommel - a Seven Eights Rigged saddle).
What about a saddle with a rear cinch only? I haven't seen any write-ups on that one although somewhere along the line someone may have experimented with the idea. They may not have lived to tell about it! In any event don't try it.
Knowledge is Power - Impress Your Friends
Armed with the above knowledge you can impress your friends with your knowledge of saddlery by taking them with you to the saddle shop and asking to see what they have in the way of a "seven-eights single rigged saddle" . You likely won't impress the shop owner since that's how the majority of saddles are rigged nowadays. Actually seven-eights with either single or double rigging are the most popular configurations.
You could also ask for a double rigged center fire saddle in which case the shop owner would likely roll his eyes and talk about you long after you've left. The reason - with center fire rigging a back cinch is so close to the front cinch that it serves no practical purpose.
Single or Double Rigging?
Double rigging adds stability which is an advantage if you're going to be riding in very rough couontry (ups and downs) much of the time. Otherwise, the back cinch is "just another piece of leather to worry about" according to some, and they prefer single rigging for that reason.
Rings and Clamps
There are several ways in which rigging is attached to the tree or the skirt. If you're buying a quality saddle I wouldn't worry too much about O-rings, D-rings, or plates. Sit in the saddle and see if it's comfortable and then decide if seven-eights or whatever is right for you.
by:
Ask a little kid (or someone who draws "stick pictures" like I do) to draw a horse with a saddle on it. The cinch will probably be depicted as dropping down from the center of the saddle and going around the middle of the horse's belly. This would seem natural and in fact the "old timey saddles" of the 19th century were essentially rigged this way. It's called Center Fire rigging and requires a rather wide cinch (6-8 inches) to keep the cinch in place.
The evolution of Rigging Design
Like so many other parts of a saddle, the rigging got to where it is today largely through evolution. Someone would change something that needed changing, experiment a bit, and come up with a new "design". Circumstances relating to the use of the saddle would often dictate the need for changes in the approach to the rigging.
With the advent of the saddle horn as an aid in roping, Center Fire rigging was found to have some disadvantages. Rope the calf and stop the horse and the saddle would tend to be pulled forward with the cantle perhaps rising. The answer to the problem was found in Full Rigging where the position of the cinch is directly below the fork or pommel rather than at the center of the seat. Tightening the cinch on a full-rigged saddle actually pulls the saddle forward slightly while also pulling it down so the saddle is pulled into the low part of the horses back. If you look closely at the full-rigged saddle you'll note that the cinch doesn't drop straight down but comes forward at a slight angle, going around the horse's sternum rather than the center of the belly.
Full rigging still had some disadvantages as a roping saddle and as a recreational saddle when traveling over rough terrain. The cantle would tend to rise when going downhill or roping a calf. Texas cowboys are credited with solving the problem by the addition of a billet or back cinch attached in a line below the cantle. Add the back cinch and you have Double Rigging, with a front cinch only you have Single Rigging.
Further refinements were made with either the performance of the horse or comfort of the rider in mind, or both. If your cinch is halfway between the cantle and the pommel you have Center Fire Rigging, if the cinch is under the pommel you have Full Rigging - but you know that already. What if the cinch is three quarters of the way from the cantle? The answer - a Three Quarters Rigged saddle - seven eights of the distance (i.e. about at the rear of the pommel - a Seven Eights Rigged saddle).
What about a saddle with a rear cinch only? I haven't seen any write-ups on that one although somewhere along the line someone may have experimented with the idea. They may not have lived to tell about it! In any event don't try it.
Knowledge is Power - Impress Your Friends
Armed with the above knowledge you can impress your friends with your knowledge of saddlery by taking them with you to the saddle shop and asking to see what they have in the way of a "seven-eights single rigged saddle" . You likely won't impress the shop owner since that's how the majority of saddles are rigged nowadays. Actually seven-eights with either single or double rigging are the most popular configurations.
You could also ask for a double rigged center fire saddle in which case the shop owner would likely roll his eyes and talk about you long after you've left. The reason - with center fire rigging a back cinch is so close to the front cinch that it serves no practical purpose.
Single or Double Rigging?
Double rigging adds stability which is an advantage if you're going to be riding in very rough couontry (ups and downs) much of the time. Otherwise, the back cinch is "just another piece of leather to worry about" according to some, and they prefer single rigging for that reason.
Rings and Clamps
There are several ways in which rigging is attached to the tree or the skirt. If you're buying a quality saddle I wouldn't worry too much about O-rings, D-rings, or plates. Sit in the saddle and see if it's comfortable and then decide if seven-eights or whatever is right for you.
by:
2011年1月19日星期三
Attract Deer to Your Deer Hunting Tree Stand
Last week I talked about how to get deer, and even big bucks, to follow you out to your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind.
Today I am going to talk about how to attract more deer and bigger deer to your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind.
Suddenly, the big buck stops and begins to circle your tree stand or blind location. As you sit in your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind watching the buck, you notice the wind direction has changed slightly and is now blowing your human odor in the direction of the big buck.
No worries, you figure, he will keep coming towards you, because you have sprayed cover scent all over your deer hunting gear and deer hunting clothing.
Then it happens.
The buck stops in his tracks, throws his head into the air and snorts loudly as he catches your human odor. The big buck turns and runs deeper into the woods, not once offering you a clean shot.
Your deer hunt doesn’t have to end this way.
In order to attract more deer and big bucks for a clean shot from your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind, you must keep your human odor as minimal as possible.
During the pre-rut, I used doe urine and buck urine scents. During the rut, I use doe estrus and dominate buck scents.
Here is how I make handling these scent wicks less messy to make and quicker to hang in the field.
The scent wicks I hang in the field around my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind are saturated with the same scents as my drag lines. (We talked about this in a prior newsletter and blog post.)
The day before I go deer hunting, while preparing my deer scent drag lines, I saturate six additional scent wicks and place them into the zip-top bags with the drag lines.
One bag contains three additional scent wicks saturated with buck urine during the pre-rut and dominant buck scent during the rut.
The second bag contains three additional scent wicks saturated with doe urine during the pre-rut and doe estrus during the rut.
Then, I walk twenty yards to the right of my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind and do the same. I move twenty yards to the left of my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind and hang the remaining buck and doe scent wicks.
What is the purpose of hanging the scent wicks to either side of your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind?
It is to help cover your human odor if the wind currents change and to stop deer from catching human odor and bolting when they circle behind you or are down wind of you.
I’ve had big bucks circle to the side of my deer hunting tree stand, catch the smell of the scent wick and turn back towards my tree stand. This allowed me good shots before I was winded by the deer.
The next time you head into the deer hunting woods let deer attractant scents and the wind currents do some of the work for you. Place your scent wicks in front and to the left and right of your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind.
Do this and you could attract more deer to you, without them knowing you are even there.
Good Luck and Great Hunting.
Today I am going to talk about how to attract more deer and bigger deer to your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind.
Marty Prokop asks, “How Many Times Has This Happened to You?”
You are sitting in your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind. You see a big buck walking in front of you, just out of range.Suddenly, the big buck stops and begins to circle your tree stand or blind location. As you sit in your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind watching the buck, you notice the wind direction has changed slightly and is now blowing your human odor in the direction of the big buck.
No worries, you figure, he will keep coming towards you, because you have sprayed cover scent all over your deer hunting gear and deer hunting clothing.
Then it happens.
The buck stops in his tracks, throws his head into the air and snorts loudly as he catches your human odor. The big buck turns and runs deeper into the woods, not once offering you a clean shot.
Your deer hunt doesn’t have to end this way.
In order to attract more deer and big bucks for a clean shot from your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind, you must keep your human odor as minimal as possible.
Marty Prokop Reveals Using Deer Attractant Scents to Lure Deer Closer
In addition to my cover scent, I hang multiple scent wicks around my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind location.During the pre-rut, I used doe urine and buck urine scents. During the rut, I use doe estrus and dominate buck scents.
Here is how I make handling these scent wicks less messy to make and quicker to hang in the field.
The scent wicks I hang in the field around my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind are saturated with the same scents as my drag lines. (We talked about this in a prior newsletter and blog post.)
The day before I go deer hunting, while preparing my deer scent drag lines, I saturate six additional scent wicks and place them into the zip-top bags with the drag lines.
One bag contains three additional scent wicks saturated with buck urine during the pre-rut and dominant buck scent during the rut.
The second bag contains three additional scent wicks saturated with doe urine during the pre-rut and doe estrus during the rut.
In The Field with Marty Prokop
In a shooting lane directly in front of my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind, about 20 yards out, I hang one doe-based attractant scent wick and one buck-based attractant scent wick. I make sure all scent wicks are four to five feet off the ground so wind can help disperse the deer scent.Then, I walk twenty yards to the right of my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind and do the same. I move twenty yards to the left of my deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind and hang the remaining buck and doe scent wicks.
What is the purpose of hanging the scent wicks to either side of your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind?
It is to help cover your human odor if the wind currents change and to stop deer from catching human odor and bolting when they circle behind you or are down wind of you.
I’ve had big bucks circle to the side of my deer hunting tree stand, catch the smell of the scent wick and turn back towards my tree stand. This allowed me good shots before I was winded by the deer.
The next time you head into the deer hunting woods let deer attractant scents and the wind currents do some of the work for you. Place your scent wicks in front and to the left and right of your deer hunting tree stand or deer hunting blind.
Do this and you could attract more deer to you, without them knowing you are even there.
Good Luck and Great Hunting.
By Marty Prokop
New Zealand Merino Wool - The Top Choice For Kids Garments
Heralded by many as nature's wonder fabric, merino wool has plenty of highly desirable properties that make it an excellent choice for children's clothes. Made ethically in New Zealand using environmentally safe practices, merino clothing is completely natural and organic - an important consideration in light of the recent scandals over dangerous levels of toxic chemicals in a variety of children's products ranging from toys to clothes.
Large corporations have spent millions developing synthetic fabrics like polypropylene as cheap alternatives to the real thing, but nothing comes close to rivaling the unbeatable qualities of all natural merino wool. The wool is comes from a special breed of sheep called the Merino which can be found grazing peacefully all over New Zealand's pristine farmland. These sheep usually belong to small or medium sized family farms that lovingly care for them and harvest their wool once a year - a time honoured tradition that in some farms goes back several generations. The entire process, from wool harvesting and transporting as well as the manufacturing of the clothes is designed to be sustainable. Merino clothing is a wholly natural, recyclable and biodegradable product; at no stage in the manufacturing process are chemicals like chlorine or bleach used, making merino wool one of the safest clothing choices for your children.
Merino wool's natural durability makes it an ideal choice for kids clothing - studies have shown that merino wool fibres can be bent up to 30,000 times without breaking. This essentially means that clothes made from merino wool will stand up to repeated washings without looking old and worn out. Merino wool is also naturally odour and stain resistant - an important factor when it comes to children's garments.
Merino wool offers many health benefits to babies and infants. The heat regulation properties inherent merino wool creates a temperature controlled cocoon around a sleeping child resulting in a more restful sleep. It can take up to 1 year for newborns to be able to regulate their own body temperature and overheating babies can tragically fall victim to Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). Merino wool has been shown to reduce the incidence of SIDS in sleeping babies thanks to its moisture absorption and temperature regulation properties. Last but not least, unlike other types of wool, merino is static resistant, meaning it attracts fewer dust particles and lint - good news for kids with allergies.
Parents of newborns will find many positive benefits in outfitting their little bundle of joy in merino wool baby clothes. Merino coverings are known to improve a baby's sleep patterns due to the fabric's excellent temperature regulation properties. Since merino wool is also static resistant it picks up fewer dust particles and lint from the air making it ideal for babies and infants with allergies. Studies have even shown merino wool has a marked effect in reducing the risk of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS) in newborns.
In addition to all the above benefits, clothes made from merino wool have exceptional levels of comfort. The secret lies within the extremely small diameter of the individual merino fibres which range from 13 to 24 microns - an impressive figure when you consider that the diameter of the average human hair is 60 microns. The exceptional softness of merino wool clothing often takes people by surprise, not many expect woollen garments to be so silky and luxurious to the touch. This eliminates any itchiness or prickling sensations against sensitive young skin - a must for children's clothing.
A testament to its durability and desirability, merino wool has long been the mainstay fabric of high-end athletic wear for activities like long distance running, hiking, cycling or mountain climbing - activities where the wool's amazing temperature regulation, breathability and comfort are indispensable. Why should outdoorsmen and athletes have all the fun? Your kids can enjoy all the benefits and luxurious softness of natural fibre merino wool clothing. Designed with fun, fashion and functionality in mind, merino wool garments should be your number one choice when it comes to clothing your little ones.
Extract from: www.articlealley.com
Large corporations have spent millions developing synthetic fabrics like polypropylene as cheap alternatives to the real thing, but nothing comes close to rivaling the unbeatable qualities of all natural merino wool. The wool is comes from a special breed of sheep called the Merino which can be found grazing peacefully all over New Zealand's pristine farmland. These sheep usually belong to small or medium sized family farms that lovingly care for them and harvest their wool once a year - a time honoured tradition that in some farms goes back several generations. The entire process, from wool harvesting and transporting as well as the manufacturing of the clothes is designed to be sustainable. Merino clothing is a wholly natural, recyclable and biodegradable product; at no stage in the manufacturing process are chemicals like chlorine or bleach used, making merino wool one of the safest clothing choices for your children.
Merino wool's natural durability makes it an ideal choice for kids clothing - studies have shown that merino wool fibres can be bent up to 30,000 times without breaking. This essentially means that clothes made from merino wool will stand up to repeated washings without looking old and worn out. Merino wool is also naturally odour and stain resistant - an important factor when it comes to children's garments.
Merino wool offers many health benefits to babies and infants. The heat regulation properties inherent merino wool creates a temperature controlled cocoon around a sleeping child resulting in a more restful sleep. It can take up to 1 year for newborns to be able to regulate their own body temperature and overheating babies can tragically fall victim to Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). Merino wool has been shown to reduce the incidence of SIDS in sleeping babies thanks to its moisture absorption and temperature regulation properties. Last but not least, unlike other types of wool, merino is static resistant, meaning it attracts fewer dust particles and lint - good news for kids with allergies.
Parents of newborns will find many positive benefits in outfitting their little bundle of joy in merino wool baby clothes. Merino coverings are known to improve a baby's sleep patterns due to the fabric's excellent temperature regulation properties. Since merino wool is also static resistant it picks up fewer dust particles and lint from the air making it ideal for babies and infants with allergies. Studies have even shown merino wool has a marked effect in reducing the risk of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS) in newborns.
In addition to all the above benefits, clothes made from merino wool have exceptional levels of comfort. The secret lies within the extremely small diameter of the individual merino fibres which range from 13 to 24 microns - an impressive figure when you consider that the diameter of the average human hair is 60 microns. The exceptional softness of merino wool clothing often takes people by surprise, not many expect woollen garments to be so silky and luxurious to the touch. This eliminates any itchiness or prickling sensations against sensitive young skin - a must for children's clothing.
A testament to its durability and desirability, merino wool has long been the mainstay fabric of high-end athletic wear for activities like long distance running, hiking, cycling or mountain climbing - activities where the wool's amazing temperature regulation, breathability and comfort are indispensable. Why should outdoorsmen and athletes have all the fun? Your kids can enjoy all the benefits and luxurious softness of natural fibre merino wool clothing. Designed with fun, fashion and functionality in mind, merino wool garments should be your number one choice when it comes to clothing your little ones.
Extract from: www.articlealley.com
Read more at http://www.articlealley.com/article_1700037_27.html?ktrack=kcplink
2011年1月18日星期二
How To Sight In A Riflescope
A few months back I had to complete the task of sighing in my scope. I went to the sporting goods store bought a few boxes of shells, some paper targets, and earplugs. I headed to the local rifle range for a task that I thought would take a few minutes to complete. Well, after a box of shells and no holes in the target I found out I was wrong. I left the range in disgust and was ready to just place the rifle in the corner of my closet where it would collect dust until the next time I decided to try again. The process that I was using was not the best one to take. I took a paper target mounted it to a board and placed it out about 50 yards from where I was sitting. I started to unload shot after shot. I would see that the bullet hit the ground to the left so I made the right adjustments just to discover that the bullet hit the ground to the right, I could never get the bullet to hit the paper.
After this very frustrating experience, I decided to look on the Internet to see if I could find some information that would enlighten me. After reading many websites and talking to a few friends, I decided I would try a different approach. I went to the local sporting goods store and bought a laser bore sighting system. The bore system will help to get the bullet to hit the paper target. The following day, I went to the rifle range set up my target, fired one shot, made the proper adjustments fired another shot and to my amazement hit the center of the target. So how did I do it?
First, if you do not yet have one get yourself a good sighting vise, this will help you hold the rifle still. You may need to add a little weight to the vise to stop the movement during the recoil, what I did was mounted a piece of lead to the bottom of the vise, this added about 10 extra pounds to the vise. Get some paper targets, a few boxes of shells, and earplugs. Use the bore sighting system before you fire any shots.
Once you have done this, it is time to go to the range and sight your rifle. Mount your rifle in the vise; and place your target about 25 yards away from you. Load your rifle, and place the cross hairs in the center of the target. When you are ready squeeze the trigger and fire the rifle, then look and see where the bullet hit. The next thing you will need to do is place the cross hairs on the center of the target, NOTE: Move the vise not the scope settings. Depending on how much weight is on the vise the recoil may not have moved the vise. The next step is to move the cross hairs towards the bullet hole until the cross hairs are lined up with the bullet hole. For example if the hole is in the lower left corner of the target make the proper adjustments to the scope, by first moving the cross hairs down then to the left. Once this step is complete find the center of the target load your rifle and fire the second shot, this time the shot should be in the center of the target.!
Once you sight in your rifle at 25 yards you can repeat the same process for the yardage you want.
extract from: www.articlecity.com
After this very frustrating experience, I decided to look on the Internet to see if I could find some information that would enlighten me. After reading many websites and talking to a few friends, I decided I would try a different approach. I went to the local sporting goods store and bought a laser bore sighting system. The bore system will help to get the bullet to hit the paper target. The following day, I went to the rifle range set up my target, fired one shot, made the proper adjustments fired another shot and to my amazement hit the center of the target. So how did I do it?
First, if you do not yet have one get yourself a good sighting vise, this will help you hold the rifle still. You may need to add a little weight to the vise to stop the movement during the recoil, what I did was mounted a piece of lead to the bottom of the vise, this added about 10 extra pounds to the vise. Get some paper targets, a few boxes of shells, and earplugs. Use the bore sighting system before you fire any shots.
Once you have done this, it is time to go to the range and sight your rifle. Mount your rifle in the vise; and place your target about 25 yards away from you. Load your rifle, and place the cross hairs in the center of the target. When you are ready squeeze the trigger and fire the rifle, then look and see where the bullet hit. The next thing you will need to do is place the cross hairs on the center of the target, NOTE: Move the vise not the scope settings. Depending on how much weight is on the vise the recoil may not have moved the vise. The next step is to move the cross hairs towards the bullet hole until the cross hairs are lined up with the bullet hole. For example if the hole is in the lower left corner of the target make the proper adjustments to the scope, by first moving the cross hairs down then to the left. Once this step is complete find the center of the target load your rifle and fire the second shot, this time the shot should be in the center of the target.!
Once you sight in your rifle at 25 yards you can repeat the same process for the yardage you want.
extract from: www.articlecity.com
Choose Your Best Rifle Scope
Detecting the best rifle scope for you can be adjacently as challenging as aiming the prey itself. With because common alternatives and so many options, it's sometimes adverse to line up a target. This article will help first of all define the options and choices you have, and give you a plan for finding the best rifle scope to buy.
Ultimately the function of any scope is to help aim, give you an idea of distance to the target, and make accumulation easier. The best rifle scopes are high-quality, precision instruments, very light, rugged and with outstanding optics.
To do that there are several features a good rifle scope must possess. In no particular order, here they are. Not directly related to the scope, but crucial nonetheless is your mount. If your scope is not securely mounted, with no opportunity to move, then you are asking for problems. It's worth it to make sure you have a solid, superbly-aligned
mount on which to place your great new scope.
Other factors to consider would be the image and its quality. There are several things to think about in this regard. It's just vital that the optics deliver as much light as possible to the eyepiece. The lighter you have to work with the sharper the resolution and eventually the shot. This is one reason why larger objective lens scopes (50mm) have become more popular recently, as the larger the light gathering capability, the more you have to work with.
Lens quality is a huge issue, too, and can be detected by any distortion visible around the edges. Lens coatings are applied to quality optics to reduce reflection causing glare and help gather light for a crisper, brighter image. Do not buy a lens that is not at least multi-coated.
You do not want your aim reference point changing from one shot to the next. Check for Parallax error as well. This is when slight changes in eye position change the aim of the scope. You can expect most quality rifle scopes to be parallax error-free to 100 yards. Magnification of the target image is another item to consider. If you are hunting with a very powerful gun over a great distance this may be something you would want. Most the time however you do not want any magnification, as it fiddles with your natural ability to reckon distance drop.
Finally make sure the scope you buy is watertight; sealed tight as a drum, and totally fog proof. Keeping these things in mind while you are search for a new rifle scope will help you save money, heartache, and missed shots!
Extract from: www.ArticleBlast.com
2011年1月17日星期一
Equestrian Dressing With Comfort
Caring for and being with horses entails one to be always under the scorching heat of the sun, freezing cold of the rain and in constant communion with the smell of horse urine and dung. Despite its unattractiveness, many people, even celebrities who are used to the conveniences that theirs assistants and money provide at their beck and call, enjoy the nomadic-like life being with horses.
Being with horses does not mean that one has to lead a dull social life and sport outdated fashion style. Because having a herd of horses has become a symbol of status, fashion designers have dressed the Royal family in their horse sporting careers and horse-related events. With this course of event, many designers have fashioned gears and riding apparel that do not only make horses and horse riders fashionably attractive but comfortable in their attire.
One of the most basic aspects where riders must meticulously pay attention to is their choice of footwear. Equestrian footwear, aside from protecting riders from injuries from related accidents, protects their skin from coming in contact with the horses' hair. Popular nationally known brands such as Ariat, Tuffrider, Perri's Leather and among others provide a wide array of boots depending on the events. In choosing boots, the style has to match the event and weather as many of the footwear nowadays are designed for specific riding events or purpose and weather.
Riding clothes on the other hand, from stretch to moisture wicking to sun protection must be designed to provide the most comfort and allow maximum mobility for body mechanics such that riders are not subjected to distractions such as unwanted exposure brought by torn pants or tops. Most importantly, garments must be of superior quality and tailored to meet the riders' nature of activities. With the increasing number of fashion designers who are into designing apparel for riders, their artwork have come to rival with those seen only in the runways donned by ramp models. Not only that, as they are overly subjected to sun protection, our superior technology has come up with shirts and undergarments that provide maximum sun protection with long sleeves and most significantly, are added with 50 UPF sun protection rating.
Lotions capable of providing maximum sun protection should also be taken into consideration as constant sun exposure causes sunburns and wrinkles that contribute to skin aging. Waterproof lotions that last longer than ordinary ones are available in the market.
Fashion designers' relentless commitment to proving garments and apparel to horse enthusiast have continually allowed them to enjoy their passion and at the same time made them worthy to grace some of the fashion magazines covers.
Being with horses does not mean that one has to lead a dull social life and sport outdated fashion style. Because having a herd of horses has become a symbol of status, fashion designers have dressed the Royal family in their horse sporting careers and horse-related events. With this course of event, many designers have fashioned gears and riding apparel that do not only make horses and horse riders fashionably attractive but comfortable in their attire.
One of the most basic aspects where riders must meticulously pay attention to is their choice of footwear. Equestrian footwear, aside from protecting riders from injuries from related accidents, protects their skin from coming in contact with the horses' hair. Popular nationally known brands such as Ariat, Tuffrider, Perri's Leather and among others provide a wide array of boots depending on the events. In choosing boots, the style has to match the event and weather as many of the footwear nowadays are designed for specific riding events or purpose and weather.
Riding clothes on the other hand, from stretch to moisture wicking to sun protection must be designed to provide the most comfort and allow maximum mobility for body mechanics such that riders are not subjected to distractions such as unwanted exposure brought by torn pants or tops. Most importantly, garments must be of superior quality and tailored to meet the riders' nature of activities. With the increasing number of fashion designers who are into designing apparel for riders, their artwork have come to rival with those seen only in the runways donned by ramp models. Not only that, as they are overly subjected to sun protection, our superior technology has come up with shirts and undergarments that provide maximum sun protection with long sleeves and most significantly, are added with 50 UPF sun protection rating.
Lotions capable of providing maximum sun protection should also be taken into consideration as constant sun exposure causes sunburns and wrinkles that contribute to skin aging. Waterproof lotions that last longer than ordinary ones are available in the market.
Fashion designers' relentless commitment to proving garments and apparel to horse enthusiast have continually allowed them to enjoy their passion and at the same time made them worthy to grace some of the fashion magazines covers.
| As horses are the main subject why designers have come-up with such apparel, these animals deserve more than pampering. Giving them a comfortable home and horse stall mats, designed to meet their needs and horse stall fronts that allow them to see any threats to their home, are some of the basic indulgences that owners must provide. By Greg Pierce |
Guide to Selecting the Best Horse Riding Body Protector
written by Felicity Lightbody
When choosing a body protector, there are certain factors that should be considered;
- What discipline will the rider be undertaking when wearing it?
- What are the hazards that the rider may become subject to?
It is the nature of the hazards and the potential risks that the rider may come across that determines the level of protection required. There are three protection levels determined by the European Union's Regulations that cater for any riders needs.
Level 1 - Black Level
This is lower level impact protection, usually only worn by licensed jockeys when racing.
Level 2 - Brown Level
This is a lower than normal protection level for use in low risk situations only. No rider should choose this level of protection if they will be;
- Riding on hard surfaces and/or roads,
- Jumping,
- Riding young, spooky or nervous horses
- In a situation above their capabilities
Level 3 - Purple Label
Body protectors with this level of protection are suitable for riders in competitions and for normal horse riding. Purple Label protection aims to prevent minor bruising, reduce soft tissue injuries and in some cases can help prevent some rib fractures.
The European Union Standard EN 13158:2000 is met by the BETA 2000 Standard. This is the standard to which body protectors today are produced. This standard is subject to continuous review. Manufacturers re-test their garments to ensure the consistency in quality of their products and the individual components that they are made of.
If the foam of a body protector is damaged in any way the garment should be replaced as the protection is impaired. Every 3 years body protectors should be replaced.
When fitting a body protector it is vital that the correct size is chosen. This can be determined by measuring the riders
- Waist
- Chest
- Front to back of waist (over the shoulders)
Wear tight clothes when trying on body protectors and be sure that it is comfortable and suitable for the riding involved. Wearing the correct size ensures the maximum amount of protection is given.
As with any protective wear, equestrian body protectors cannot prevent injury but the severity of impacts can be greatly reduced if a correctly fitted, suitable body protector is being worn.
When choosing a body protector, there are certain factors that should be considered;
- What discipline will the rider be undertaking when wearing it?
- What are the hazards that the rider may become subject to?
It is the nature of the hazards and the potential risks that the rider may come across that determines the level of protection required. There are three protection levels determined by the European Union's Regulations that cater for any riders needs.
Level 1 - Black Level
This is lower level impact protection, usually only worn by licensed jockeys when racing.
Level 2 - Brown Level
This is a lower than normal protection level for use in low risk situations only. No rider should choose this level of protection if they will be;
- Riding on hard surfaces and/or roads,
- Jumping,
- Riding young, spooky or nervous horses
- In a situation above their capabilities
Level 3 - Purple Label
Body protectors with this level of protection are suitable for riders in competitions and for normal horse riding. Purple Label protection aims to prevent minor bruising, reduce soft tissue injuries and in some cases can help prevent some rib fractures.
The European Union Standard EN 13158:2000 is met by the BETA 2000 Standard. This is the standard to which body protectors today are produced. This standard is subject to continuous review. Manufacturers re-test their garments to ensure the consistency in quality of their products and the individual components that they are made of.
If the foam of a body protector is damaged in any way the garment should be replaced as the protection is impaired. Every 3 years body protectors should be replaced.
When fitting a body protector it is vital that the correct size is chosen. This can be determined by measuring the riders
- Waist
- Chest
- Front to back of waist (over the shoulders)
Wear tight clothes when trying on body protectors and be sure that it is comfortable and suitable for the riding involved. Wearing the correct size ensures the maximum amount of protection is given.
As with any protective wear, equestrian body protectors cannot prevent injury but the severity of impacts can be greatly reduced if a correctly fitted, suitable body protector is being worn.
2011年1月16日星期日
Golden Globes 2011 BEST-DRESSED: See Who Knocked Our Socks Off
Why wait for Monday to get your Golden Globes fashion analysis? That's so Entertainment Tonight. We're here, we're queer (in taste, at least) and we're ready to make snap judgments.
You're sure to disagree with some of our decisions, so chime in by voting on the slideshow below. And if you still crave more, check out our Golden Globes 2011 Live Blog & Live Stream.
See our picks for Golden Globes 2011 WORST-DRESSED here.
Now, let the judging begin.
Your Pocket And The Right Saddle
One of the most important issues for a rider to consider is choosing the right saddle for her/his horse. As the horse speaks for the owner so does a saddle speaks for the horse. Saddles come in various styles, shape and color. The question is which kind of saddle to prefer when you are buying one .There are companies that have standardized themselves in the saddle production industry. There are many factors we should consider before we buy the saddle.
There are many kind of Western Saddles for sale and various kind of English Saddles for sale that come in all price ranges, with starting price as low as 100$ and there are saddles as costly as 10,000$. So the first factor is the budget of the owner. Remember keeping a horse and its maintenance is a laborious and expensive task. An owner spends from training to riding a handsome amount. So saddles no matter whether English Saddles or Western Saddles must be chosen keeping the other expenditures in mind. If you are a big spender and can afford products of these highly prestigious brands then these are your best options they don't compromise for quality and that's why the charges for the product whose basic material cost is in hundreds of dollars reach a price limit of thousands. When it comes to minute details and designs these brands are incomparable.
This doesn't implies that you're horse that deserves the best of saddles in look and quality should be content with just ordinary saddles because your budget is a little controlled or you are interested in spending on other important things. Now, the horse owners have an opportunity to buy the saddles that are more than just good in quality and appearances in incredibly low prices. There are saddles manufacturers that sell these saddles that compete with big and established brands. These manufacturers provide the horse people with good value for their money. Saddles worth thousands are half priced and in most cases even less than half the price. The resale values of these Western Saddles are also good. Stallion tack inc. is one famous brand for these saddles.
Some manufacturing brands that are emerging have varieties of saddle for sale in retail and in whole-sale. There collection includes all kind of quality Western Saddles and English Saddles . These people are reaching directly to their customers using the modern medium of selling and buying on platforms as basic and prevalent as Ebay, Amazon etc. Now the horse lovers can buy these good saddles from these manufacturers and the money saved can be spent on the horse or go down as savings. The best thing about these deals are that apart from being low in prices these saddles always have something unique to offer in their designs. These under-priced goods are manufactured keeping in mind the needs of the horse and the rider. There look compete with other high priced equine product counterparts.
The last option for buying a Saddle is buying the used ones. People around the world sell their used saddles and this gives them variety of options at low price range. Most of these Western Saddles are in very good condition for using them and the buyers are most of the time satisfied.
Apart from the money spent, time taken the most important is the efforts and pain taken in the process of maintaining a horse. So love it, Care it and pride owning it.
Extract from: Lisa Smith
2011年1月13日星期四
4 Steps To Ensure You'll Keep Your New Year's Resolution
If you're like most Americans this time of year, you've stuffed yourself with cookies and other sweets and washed it all down with eggnog. But instead of feeling jolly, you're feeling bloated and lethargic.
Studies show that nearly all the weight people gain over the course of the year comes on during the holiday season. And because we tend not to lose quite all of it the following spring, our weight ratchets up, year after year. The average American gains about 15 pounds per decade.
But most of us have trouble breaking out of that pattern. If you've made a New Year's resolution to lose weight, chances are your resolve doesn't last very long. New Year's resolutions can be hard to keep. But if you follow these simple steps, you're more likely to keep your resolution--and keep the weight off for good.
1. Use the V-word. Abundant research has shown that the more vegetarian meals people eat, the easier time they have maintaining a healthy weight. And the most powerful meals are vegan. In May, researchers at Loma Linda University published results of a study of nearly 61,000 Americans. Vegans were the thinnest, meat-eaters were the heaviest, and fish-eaters and ovo-lacto-vegetarians were between the two. People who switch to a vegan diet typically lose about a pound a week--and this prescription for weight loss doesn't require portion control or calorie-counting. A meatless diet also helps reduce the risk of heart disease, type two diabetes, and some cancers.
2. Focus on the Short Term. A healthy diet is a lifestyle, not a fad or a quick-fix weight-loss plan. But a lifetime commitment sounds daunting. So the key is to set your sights on the short term. Cut out meats, dairy products, and eggs for three weeks, and see how you feel. Chances are, your weight will start trimming down before your very eyes. Your cholesterol is likely to drop, and your energy will rebound.
Perhaps most surprisingly, your tastes will change. Just as a person who switches from whole milk to skim milk soon adapts to the lighter taste (and then can't go back to that fatty whole milk), if you lighten the entire diet, you'll soon find that the new tastes really seem just right.
3. Break the craving cycle. Start with a good breakfast. Cutting hunger is the first step in cutting cravings. Eat at least 10 calories each day per pound of your ideal body weight. Some calorie-cutting dieters don't realize that if they eat too little, their bodies stop making an appetite-controlling hormone called leptin. A person whose ideal weight is 150 pounds needs at least 1,500 calories per day, and probably much more.
Also, choose foods that steady your blood sugar. Beans, green vegetables, fruit, and whole grains help prevent blood sugar dips that can lead to cravings.
4. Get some help online. To help you along the way, the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine is launching a 21-Day Vegan Kickstart program. Our doctors and dietitians have teamed up with leading researcher Dean Ornish, MD, actress Alicia Silverstone, chef Tal Ronnen, basketball star John Salley, best-selling authors Kathy Freston and Rory Freedman, and many other celebrities and nutrition experts to offer this free online program. The Kickstart provides recipes, nutrition advice, and an interactive support network to help participants transition to a sustainable, healthful diet in 2010.
Extract from: www.huffingtonpost.com
Studies show that nearly all the weight people gain over the course of the year comes on during the holiday season. And because we tend not to lose quite all of it the following spring, our weight ratchets up, year after year. The average American gains about 15 pounds per decade.
But most of us have trouble breaking out of that pattern. If you've made a New Year's resolution to lose weight, chances are your resolve doesn't last very long. New Year's resolutions can be hard to keep. But if you follow these simple steps, you're more likely to keep your resolution--and keep the weight off for good.
1. Use the V-word. Abundant research has shown that the more vegetarian meals people eat, the easier time they have maintaining a healthy weight. And the most powerful meals are vegan. In May, researchers at Loma Linda University published results of a study of nearly 61,000 Americans. Vegans were the thinnest, meat-eaters were the heaviest, and fish-eaters and ovo-lacto-vegetarians were between the two. People who switch to a vegan diet typically lose about a pound a week--and this prescription for weight loss doesn't require portion control or calorie-counting. A meatless diet also helps reduce the risk of heart disease, type two diabetes, and some cancers.
2. Focus on the Short Term. A healthy diet is a lifestyle, not a fad or a quick-fix weight-loss plan. But a lifetime commitment sounds daunting. So the key is to set your sights on the short term. Cut out meats, dairy products, and eggs for three weeks, and see how you feel. Chances are, your weight will start trimming down before your very eyes. Your cholesterol is likely to drop, and your energy will rebound.
Perhaps most surprisingly, your tastes will change. Just as a person who switches from whole milk to skim milk soon adapts to the lighter taste (and then can't go back to that fatty whole milk), if you lighten the entire diet, you'll soon find that the new tastes really seem just right.
3. Break the craving cycle. Start with a good breakfast. Cutting hunger is the first step in cutting cravings. Eat at least 10 calories each day per pound of your ideal body weight. Some calorie-cutting dieters don't realize that if they eat too little, their bodies stop making an appetite-controlling hormone called leptin. A person whose ideal weight is 150 pounds needs at least 1,500 calories per day, and probably much more.
Also, choose foods that steady your blood sugar. Beans, green vegetables, fruit, and whole grains help prevent blood sugar dips that can lead to cravings.
4. Get some help online. To help you along the way, the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine is launching a 21-Day Vegan Kickstart program. Our doctors and dietitians have teamed up with leading researcher Dean Ornish, MD, actress Alicia Silverstone, chef Tal Ronnen, basketball star John Salley, best-selling authors Kathy Freston and Rory Freedman, and many other celebrities and nutrition experts to offer this free online program. The Kickstart provides recipes, nutrition advice, and an interactive support network to help participants transition to a sustainable, healthful diet in 2010.
Extract from: www.huffingtonpost.com
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