Whitetail hunting can be tough.
Once upon a time, I read an article in a hunting magazine about making sure your deer is hit where you think it is, before you trot off through the woods tracking it. A couple of events from the author's bowhunting experience had demonstrated that the ol' eyeball can fool you into thinking the hit landed somewhere other than where it did.
Several times, the author suggested noting the deer's "body language" at the time of the hit, to help determine where it was hit... but he didn't give any examples or try to educate his readers on what to look for.
Thinking about it, I've rarely (if ever) seen tips in print to help hunters determine where they hit their deer via its actions. So, here goes!
The ultimate hit puts a deer down immediately, leaving no guesswork about whether or not to start tracking now or later. Most of the deer I've shot have dropped where they stood, or have fallen and died within eyesight. This isn't always the case, so it's nice to be able to have an idea where you hit your critter. This is sometimes crucial, as a poorly hit deer can run for miles if pushed too hard by trackers bent on its recovery, and may be lost in the process.
Gutshot deer will usually "hump up;" they'll arch their back, and do a sort of a stiff-legged trot.
I heard this from someone years ago, and found it to be true early in my hunting career when I failed to "pick a spot" to aim at, and instead shot at the entire deer... never a good idea, hunting equipment and a mistake I strive to avoid repeating. In my case, the deer went only about 75 yards or so and stopped, at which time I shot him again and he fell dead.
Had it come to tracking him, I would have known to wait before tracking, since the arched back and stiff-legged gait told me where I'd hit him. A gutshot deer can often live for a long time before dying, and if pushed by trackers may easily be lost.
Deer hit through the lungs will often kick their heels like a mule. I've seen it, and I'll swear to it.
The first time I saw this happen was on a muzzleloader hunt, years ago. When I shot the six-point buck broadside through both lungs, he kicked his heels straight back and started running. The thick woods prevented me from seeing very much of the deer as it fled, but it appeared to be slowing as it left my view.
I later found that it had run about sixty-five yards before stopping in front of my Dad, who was about to shoot it again when the buck fell, my .45 caliber maxi-ball having done its job.
Another instance of this occurred in the Ocala National Forest. When I shot that buck through the lungs, he kicked his heels up so high, I thought he was going to do a somersault. He crashed through the brush for 50 yards or so, then died.
Lung-shot deer won't always kick their heels, but in my experience they will always run before they die, and they may even run away "flag up" (see below). They usually don't travel far before dying quickly, and can usually be recovered within the hour.
Busting a Myth
There is a campfire myth that says if you shoot at a deer and the deer runs away "flag up" (with its tail held up high), then you missed the deer. This is not true! On more than one occasion, I have known well-hit deer to run away with flag up at the shot, looking for all the world as if they are perfectly healthy.
A couple examples: One deer was hit a quartering shot through the lungs with a 44 magnum, and another was shot broadside through both lungs with a 308 Win. Both deer ran away immediately with tails held high,rifle scope and both died soon thereafter. One of them ran about 80 yards, and the other went 150 or more, down a steep hillside. Each was blood-trailed and recovered, though at first we thought we may have missed the deer... and these are not the only instances of this that I've seen.
So next time you shoot at a deer and it runs away with its long white tail waving good-bye, follow up and search for blood, and for your deer.
Which Way Did he Go?
A hit deer that runs without any jumping or bucking or other acrobatics will usually run in the direction it was facing when the shot was fired, even if that means running uphill. This is not always the case, though.
I once shot a whitetail doe broadside with a good heart/lung shot, and she turned and ran away, turning to the left as she went. I found no blood within the first 20 yards or so, but I eventually found a good blood trail and recovered her without much trouble. So be sure to always follow up and look for blood, no matter what the deer did when you fired.
Heart Shots
I have never aimed specifically for a deer's heart; in my opinion, it's too small and too low a target to count on. I have been told that a heart-shot deer will sometimes rear up on its hind legs, but I know they'll often just drop or run, as well, giving no indication of a hit, and sometimes not even bleeding.
Most deer shot through the heart won't go far, and will die quickly.
Take Care!
Whatever the case, be sure of the shot before you take it. Don't take a shot you don't think you can make. When you shoot at a deer, follow through and find it if you hit it, and take it home! Give it a couple of hours if you're not sure of the hit, or if you know it was a poor hit, and then track it down. Take a buddy or two with you to help out... having more eyeballs out there can often make a big difference. Don't give up, and pray often for guidance. It's always worked for me!
By: Russ Chastain
2011年2月20日星期日
Tips to Finding a Good Horse Riding Instructor
Learning how to ride a horse correctly necessitates that you take up horse riding lessons. You may be able to learn on your own, following all the tips and guidelines in books and magazines, but only a riding instructor can diagnose faulty form or give you hints on how to make your ride smoother and better. Whether you want to learn to ride a horse in order to compete or just to learn how to ride a horse without falling, investing in riding lessons is always a good idea. Here are some tips to finding a good horse riding instructor:
1. Look for an instructor who can teach. This might seem obvious but you'd be surprised at the number of riding equipments teachers who do not have the patience to closely scrutinize your form or cannot wait to advance you until you are ready. Just because a riding instructor used to be the winning jockey of a graded 1 stakes race doesn't automatically make him a good riding coach.
2. Check the number of clients an instructor has under him or her. Having many students speak of his quality (usually) as a teacher. Reputation for expertise easily gets around and a very good instructor will come highly recommended compared to mediocre ones.
3. Visit the stable to see how well it is maintained or run. It should be clean and not run-down. The horses should be healthy and their stables secured. The whole area should be safe.
4. Ask if the horses are well-trained. The instructor should have horses that are taught to handle new riders well.
5. Ask for certification, if it is required in your area. An instructor certified by an equestrian federation or jockey club in your state is always a good gauge of the technical knowledge of the instructor.
6. Ask for recommendations from friends who have taken lessons before. They will always have a thing or two to say about particular instructors and are good sources of information regarding an instructor's personality and teaching style.
7. Observe how lessons are conducted when you visit the stable. This will generally give you a pretty good idea if the instructor is who you're looking for.
Keep in mind that you'll be paying the riding instructor to teach you. He or she should listen to your needs and accommodate requests for as long as they are within the bounds of reason. However, he or she should be firm enough to refuse your requests if they will not improve your riding skills.
By Kevin Hutto
1. Look for an instructor who can teach. This might seem obvious but you'd be surprised at the number of riding equipments teachers who do not have the patience to closely scrutinize your form or cannot wait to advance you until you are ready. Just because a riding instructor used to be the winning jockey of a graded 1 stakes race doesn't automatically make him a good riding coach.
2. Check the number of clients an instructor has under him or her. Having many students speak of his quality (usually) as a teacher. Reputation for expertise easily gets around and a very good instructor will come highly recommended compared to mediocre ones.
3. Visit the stable to see how well it is maintained or run. It should be clean and not run-down. The horses should be healthy and their stables secured. The whole area should be safe.
4. Ask if the horses are well-trained. The instructor should have horses that are taught to handle new riders well.
5. Ask for certification, if it is required in your area. An instructor certified by an equestrian federation or jockey club in your state is always a good gauge of the technical knowledge of the instructor.
6. Ask for recommendations from friends who have taken lessons before. They will always have a thing or two to say about particular instructors and are good sources of information regarding an instructor's personality and teaching style.
7. Observe how lessons are conducted when you visit the stable. This will generally give you a pretty good idea if the instructor is who you're looking for.
Keep in mind that you'll be paying the riding instructor to teach you. He or she should listen to your needs and accommodate requests for as long as they are within the bounds of reason. However, he or she should be firm enough to refuse your requests if they will not improve your riding skills.
By Kevin Hutto
2011年2月17日星期四
Staying Safe Around Horses
If you're a horse lover, a horse racing aficionado or even if you simply like to spend some time around horses, it's always a good idea to take the cautious approach. Equines may generally be peaceful animals, but with certain stimuli around their environment, they can sometimes act in ways that could endanger the lives of people around them. They are as strong as they graceful and fast as they are beautiful and as such, should be respected. It's always better to keep this power in mind and observe a few general principles when being around horses.
For starters, if you're meeting a horse riding for the first time (such as when you're introduced to it for a riding lesson), stay about 45 degrees from the shoulder so you reduce chances of getting kicked. Even if the instructor assures you that a horse is gentle, there's really no way of knowing how he'll react to the sight or smell of you. Thus, it's best to stay at this angle so you don't get struck in case a horse doesn't like you for one reason or another. Together with this, always observe the age-old advice of never turning your back on the horse.
In tying your horse, always observe a few safety precautions. Never tie the equine by his reins since there is always a risk of injury to his head, neck or mouth when he pulls back. Moreover, make sure that you tie your horse to a safe and secure place. Old and run-down fences are no places to tie a horse in since they can easily break them and drag them all over the place. When securing your horse, tie a slip-knot.
When you have to walk behind your horse (although this is not generally a good idea), always make sure that the horse knows you are there. Put your hand on the horse's back so he won't strike at you.
Finally, you might want to consider your outfit when riding. Wear riding breeches for English riding and jeans for Western riding. And while you might feel like a cowboy straight out of a Hollywood movie by wearing metal-toed boots, avoid the urge to. In the event that a horse steps on your foot, its weight is strong enough to pinch the metal down your toes and cause you extreme pain. Ouch!
Horses are awesome animals. But you can't let your guard around them. Stay safe!
by Kevin Hutto
For starters, if you're meeting a horse riding for the first time (such as when you're introduced to it for a riding lesson), stay about 45 degrees from the shoulder so you reduce chances of getting kicked. Even if the instructor assures you that a horse is gentle, there's really no way of knowing how he'll react to the sight or smell of you. Thus, it's best to stay at this angle so you don't get struck in case a horse doesn't like you for one reason or another. Together with this, always observe the age-old advice of never turning your back on the horse.
In tying your horse, always observe a few safety precautions. Never tie the equine by his reins since there is always a risk of injury to his head, neck or mouth when he pulls back. Moreover, make sure that you tie your horse to a safe and secure place. Old and run-down fences are no places to tie a horse in since they can easily break them and drag them all over the place. When securing your horse, tie a slip-knot.
When you have to walk behind your horse (although this is not generally a good idea), always make sure that the horse knows you are there. Put your hand on the horse's back so he won't strike at you.
Finally, you might want to consider your outfit when riding. Wear riding breeches for English riding and jeans for Western riding. And while you might feel like a cowboy straight out of a Hollywood movie by wearing metal-toed boots, avoid the urge to. In the event that a horse steps on your foot, its weight is strong enough to pinch the metal down your toes and cause you extreme pain. Ouch!
Horses are awesome animals. But you can't let your guard around them. Stay safe!
by Kevin Hutto
Which Scope Should I Buy For my Husband's (or my) Hunting Rifle?
When buying a scope for a deer hunting rifle, you want to get the best you can afford. I strongly recommend against buying a junk scope, by which I mean just about any scope that sells new for less than $120 or so - and even at that low price range one should be wary. There are plenty of scopes that sell for $30-$40, but I wouldn't put them on anything more than a squirrel rifle.
Answer: What Magnification? By far, the most common scope used on hunting rifles is 3x-9x, which means that it magnifies about 3 times at the low end of adjustment, up to 9 times at the high end. A 40mm objective lens is plenty big, and that's what I prefer on my own hunting rifles. So for the purposes of this discussion, I'll stick with the most popular scope there is: 3x-9x, 40mm.
What Brands are Good?
Well, there are plenty of them to choose from. I find myself gravitating towards Sightron at the low end of the price scale, now that I have tried a couple, and liked them. The high end, for me, would be Leupold (excluding their cheaper Rifleman series), although there are others that cost more and offer better optics. For my needs, the improvement in quality doesn't justify their high prices.
What's it Going to Cost?
Often, it comes down to how much you want to spend. I have some very good scopes, and I have some junky ones. The cheapest good one I own is a Sightron S1 (I now own three of them, all on centerfire hunting rifles). Before I discovered this brand I bought a couple of Nikon scopes in the $200 range and a Burris for a little more, and I'm pleased with them... but the $130 Sightron gives me about the same performance, and offers considerable savings.
Gloss or matte finish?
I often use matte scopes because most of my guns have matte finishes, and I don't want my gun shining like a new dime when I head into the woods. If you enjoy the cosmetics of your rifle as much as its performance, then a more polished gun would look better with a gloss scope on it. I did put a glossy Sightron S1 on Dad's old Browning BAR 30-06 (and took a doe with a 100-yard head shot the first time I took it to the woods).
Which Reticle/Crosshair?
When it comes to choosing a crosshair or reticle (that's what you see and use for aiming - usually a cross - when you look through the scope), it's hard to beat the tried-and-true cross with lines that are thicker towards the outer ends of the "hairs" and thinner in the center, where they cross. Different manufacturers call them by different names, but usually they will be named "plex" or some variation thereof.
Conclusion
All in all, you can get a good quality scope without breaking the bank, if you're careful. 3x-9x is a good range of magnification, and scopes in that range are readily available and often cost less than others. Go with a 40mm objective lens and you will have all the light you need and will still be able to mount the scope nice and low, as it should be.
Buy a scope that's good enough so you can trust it to perform when you need it, where you need it. The hunting woods isn't exactly a gentle environment, and that means our scopes should be able to take some punishment. Make your choice accordingly - the trophy of a lifetime may depend on it!
by Russ Chastain
What Brands are Good?
Well, there are plenty of them to choose from. I find myself gravitating towards Sightron at the low end of the price scale, now that I have tried a couple, and liked them. The high end, for me, would be Leupold (excluding their cheaper Rifleman series), although there are others that cost more and offer better optics. For my needs, the improvement in quality doesn't justify their high prices.
What's it Going to Cost?
Often, it comes down to how much you want to spend. I have some very good scopes, and I have some junky ones. The cheapest good one I own is a Sightron S1 (I now own three of them, all on centerfire hunting rifles). Before I discovered this brand I bought a couple of Nikon scopes in the $200 range and a Burris for a little more, and I'm pleased with them... but the $130 Sightron gives me about the same performance, and offers considerable savings.
Gloss or matte finish?
I often use matte scopes because most of my guns have matte finishes, and I don't want my gun shining like a new dime when I head into the woods. If you enjoy the cosmetics of your rifle as much as its performance, then a more polished gun would look better with a gloss scope on it. I did put a glossy Sightron S1 on Dad's old Browning BAR 30-06 (and took a doe with a 100-yard head shot the first time I took it to the woods).
Which Reticle/Crosshair?
When it comes to choosing a crosshair or reticle (that's what you see and use for aiming - usually a cross - when you look through the scope), it's hard to beat the tried-and-true cross with lines that are thicker towards the outer ends of the "hairs" and thinner in the center, where they cross. Different manufacturers call them by different names, but usually they will be named "plex" or some variation thereof.
Conclusion
All in all, you can get a good quality scope without breaking the bank, if you're careful. 3x-9x is a good range of magnification, and scopes in that range are readily available and often cost less than others. Go with a 40mm objective lens and you will have all the light you need and will still be able to mount the scope nice and low, as it should be.
Buy a scope that's good enough so you can trust it to perform when you need it, where you need it. The hunting woods isn't exactly a gentle environment, and that means our scopes should be able to take some punishment. Make your choice accordingly - the trophy of a lifetime may depend on it!
by Russ Chastain
2011年2月16日星期三
What Is The Best Way To Saddle A Horse?
The best way to saddle a horse is to use a western style thick felt pad, felt being good for use any time you have got a horse that may be getting into a sweaty situation. This will definitely help wick that off. But since you would also have a little bit of color in your day today, go ahead and add one of these blue Navajo blankets just to pit some fun and color to it. Always remember that you never want to use just the thin pad of this type because that would not offer enough protection to the horse.
It is important to line them both up, making sure that the nice clean pad is on top, covering all areas of the felt pad. Then after that, you are going to come and get the saddle, don't forget to make sure that all the parts are hooked up here on their safe keeper so they're not dragging, getting in your way and making it difficult to put this up. Your horse is going to move away, easily for you if you push her just to get enough room to clear.
As you place this saddle on her, you would want to try to do so, so that it's not going to come down hard on her. These saddles can be heavy, it takes a little bit of practice to get that little lift in it to put up there in a way that's easy on the horse. You will know that the placement is correct if you have got plenty of pad in front to protect her. You have got plenty in the back and it's pretty evened out.
After that, you are going to go to the other side and check to make sure that you're happy with it over here as well. Bring down the cinch straps both in the front and the back. Position the saddle just to make it a little bit more even on this side, make sure everything is lying flat free hanging.
Now you are ready to come back around safely going around, if you know your horse well, you should not be concerned so much about being away from her hind quarter. But remember that you would still want to do it in a quiet, safe manner. You are then going to go ahead and begin to cinch this horse up or tighten her girth. Start with the front girth first. You never want to have a horse with only a back girth in place because if she were to shake or move quickly, then this saddle rolled would be suspended scaring her and probably causing her to run off. Start by putting the cinch strap from the front to the back, continue to wrap it until it runs out of available strap. It is best to use the buckle system but most found out over the years working with students that if you buckle their saddle in, it is going to remain much tighter throughout the day.
It is important to line them both up, making sure that the nice clean pad is on top, covering all areas of the felt pad. Then after that, you are going to come and get the saddle, don't forget to make sure that all the parts are hooked up here on their safe keeper so they're not dragging, getting in your way and making it difficult to put this up. Your horse is going to move away, easily for you if you push her just to get enough room to clear.
As you place this saddle on her, you would want to try to do so, so that it's not going to come down hard on her. These saddles can be heavy, it takes a little bit of practice to get that little lift in it to put up there in a way that's easy on the horse. You will know that the placement is correct if you have got plenty of pad in front to protect her. You have got plenty in the back and it's pretty evened out.
After that, you are going to go to the other side and check to make sure that you're happy with it over here as well. Bring down the cinch straps both in the front and the back. Position the saddle just to make it a little bit more even on this side, make sure everything is lying flat free hanging.
Now you are ready to come back around safely going around, if you know your horse well, you should not be concerned so much about being away from her hind quarter. But remember that you would still want to do it in a quiet, safe manner. You are then going to go ahead and begin to cinch this horse up or tighten her girth. Start with the front girth first. You never want to have a horse with only a back girth in place because if she were to shake or move quickly, then this saddle rolled would be suspended scaring her and probably causing her to run off. Start by putting the cinch strap from the front to the back, continue to wrap it until it runs out of available strap. It is best to use the buckle system but most found out over the years working with students that if you buckle their saddle in, it is going to remain much tighter throughout the day.
Royal Champion is a horse information and supplements company that has a lot of tips and advice on how to take care of horses by using premium horse vitamin supplement in their daily diet.
By Ryan Ready
By Ryan Ready
Why Steel Toe Horse Riding Boots Are a Good Idea
If you have been unfortunate enough to have your horse carefully place his hoof onto your foot then you will know how much of an unpleasant experience it is! It is usual if you work with horses to assume that you will occasionally be trodden on. In other industries steel toe cap boots are mandatory where there is a hazard of damage to the feet, but this is not yet the case in the equine industry. This being said, there are a number of manufacturers who understand the importance of toe protection in horse riding boots and have begun to integrate this is into their products.
The truth is that steel toes inside horse riding boots are a sensible idea. It only takes a second to cause a painful injury which, if you are lucky, will only be a nice bruise that will be sore for a few days but could also result in fractured or broken toes. If horses are your livelihood, whether you work with or ride them, a foot injury can cause a very big problem. Trying to handle any horse whilst hopping around with a broken toe or fractured foot is at best difficult and at worst downright dangerous. Furthermore, it is likely that you will require a number of days out of the saddle, or at least on light riding duties as pressure of your feet in the stirrup is going to be painful or impossible. Also, a fracture to the foot could alter the weight distribution across it which will escalate to the entire limb, actually affecting your position in the saddle. If you ride horses for a living, consider the implications of having to take time off work due to such an injury and furthermore, think about the long term damage of a foot injury. Broken toes could become arthritic in later years, or suffer with poor circulation leading to discomfort when working outdoors in the winter.
If you are looking for boots with toe protection for wearing around horses, then it is advisable to buy a pair of boots that are specifically designed for horse riding. This is because there are some slight differences between traditional steel toe capped boots and those used for horse riding. Of course there are some obvious differences, and if you will be wearing your boots also for riding as well as yard work then it goes without saying that they must be horse riding boots. But even if you only intend to use the boots for working around horses, the horse riding boots with toe protection have been tested and designed specifically to withstand pressure of a horse. In particular, one of the main properties and differences is that such horse riding boots are tested to withstand pressure on soft ground, which traditional steel toe cap shoes don't. This means that when you are in the field and get trodden on, the sole of the shoe won't give way.
Overall, toe protection in horse riding boots is becoming more popular, and certainly the next time your horsey friend quietly stamps on your foot, you will be glad of the protection (or wish that you had it!). Whilst perhaps less necessary for people who only ride and do not handle horses, it is something worth considering for the others who deal with horses on a regular basis.
By Josie Amani
The truth is that steel toes inside horse riding boots are a sensible idea. It only takes a second to cause a painful injury which, if you are lucky, will only be a nice bruise that will be sore for a few days but could also result in fractured or broken toes. If horses are your livelihood, whether you work with or ride them, a foot injury can cause a very big problem. Trying to handle any horse whilst hopping around with a broken toe or fractured foot is at best difficult and at worst downright dangerous. Furthermore, it is likely that you will require a number of days out of the saddle, or at least on light riding duties as pressure of your feet in the stirrup is going to be painful or impossible. Also, a fracture to the foot could alter the weight distribution across it which will escalate to the entire limb, actually affecting your position in the saddle. If you ride horses for a living, consider the implications of having to take time off work due to such an injury and furthermore, think about the long term damage of a foot injury. Broken toes could become arthritic in later years, or suffer with poor circulation leading to discomfort when working outdoors in the winter.
If you are looking for boots with toe protection for wearing around horses, then it is advisable to buy a pair of boots that are specifically designed for horse riding. This is because there are some slight differences between traditional steel toe capped boots and those used for horse riding. Of course there are some obvious differences, and if you will be wearing your boots also for riding as well as yard work then it goes without saying that they must be horse riding boots. But even if you only intend to use the boots for working around horses, the horse riding boots with toe protection have been tested and designed specifically to withstand pressure of a horse. In particular, one of the main properties and differences is that such horse riding boots are tested to withstand pressure on soft ground, which traditional steel toe cap shoes don't. This means that when you are in the field and get trodden on, the sole of the shoe won't give way.
Overall, toe protection in horse riding boots is becoming more popular, and certainly the next time your horsey friend quietly stamps on your foot, you will be glad of the protection (or wish that you had it!). Whilst perhaps less necessary for people who only ride and do not handle horses, it is something worth considering for the others who deal with horses on a regular basis.
By Josie Amani
2011年2月14日星期一
Red Dot Sight - Reflects Red Light for Shooting Accuracy
A red dot sight is different from a laser sight. Whereas a laser actually emits a beam of light onto the target, a red dot will reflect an image onto the glass of the sight and then superimpose a dot onto the target. Typically, this type does not magnify the target in the lens, but merely sights the target. This type of sight can also be used with a telescope. The sights without magnification are usually installed on handguns, sub machine guns and shotguns for use at close range. This type offers a pretty good level of precision and accuracy.
How does the red dot work? It has a concave lens with a very thin metallic coating that reflects red light only. The red dot is a reflection of a light emitting diode inside the sight tube. When you look through the sight, a red dot appears as if it has been projected onto the target. The sight does not have pinpoint accuracy, but offers some level of assurance that you will hit your target by employing proper aiming and firing techniques. In addition, It can be adjusted up and down as needed.
There are several types of red dot sights. There is the full tube sight which looks very similar to the telescopic sight. This type is often employed with a shotgun. It comes with additional features and accessories such as haze reducing filters, sun shades, and flip-up lens covers. Open sights are also known as mini red dot sights because they are smaller and weigh less than the full tube sight. Because they are smaller, however, they often do not have accessories and options such as haze filters and sun shades. Small tube sights have the ability to accommodate haze filters and sun shades, but are smaller than full tube sights.
If you are considering purchasing this type of sight, then the experts recommend that you first take a look through the sight to make sure that you are comfortable with the way the sight works. Obviously, if you are color blind, you may not find it to be all that helpful in improving the accuracy of your aim. You should also consider what type of red dot sight works best for you depending on your shooting needs.
Keith Grable enjoys the outdoors, including hunting, shooting, fishing and just being outside. He is the owner of a website specializing in laser grips and sights primarily for handguns. If laser sighting is new to you, click on the link below for an informational DVD that you can download.How does the red dot work? It has a concave lens with a very thin metallic coating that reflects red light only. The red dot is a reflection of a light emitting diode inside the sight tube. When you look through the sight, a red dot appears as if it has been projected onto the target. The sight does not have pinpoint accuracy, but offers some level of assurance that you will hit your target by employing proper aiming and firing techniques. In addition, It can be adjusted up and down as needed.
There are several types of red dot sights. There is the full tube sight which looks very similar to the telescopic sight. This type is often employed with a shotgun. It comes with additional features and accessories such as haze reducing filters, sun shades, and flip-up lens covers. Open sights are also known as mini red dot sights because they are smaller and weigh less than the full tube sight. Because they are smaller, however, they often do not have accessories and options such as haze filters and sun shades. Small tube sights have the ability to accommodate haze filters and sun shades, but are smaller than full tube sights.
If you are considering purchasing this type of sight, then the experts recommend that you first take a look through the sight to make sure that you are comfortable with the way the sight works. Obviously, if you are color blind, you may not find it to be all that helpful in improving the accuracy of your aim. You should also consider what type of red dot sight works best for you depending on your shooting needs.
By Keith Grable
Rifle Scope
The rifle scope is the preferred method of big game hunters today, mostly used for turkey, deer, boar, and animals of similar size. The sports optics industry is a multimillion dollar business, and there are many choices available depending on the needs of the hunter.
Contrary to popular belief, scopes are not singularly advantageous over other methods of rifle sighting, such as iron sights and aperture sights. Scopes are notably slower than a peep site, and actually less accurate of a sports optic when close cover hunting. The main advantage of the rifle scope is its ease of use, because there is no sight alignment needed to use rifle scopes.
The first consideration when choosing a scope is the magnification to be used. Most rifle scopes have a range setting of between 3X - 9X magnification. Hunters like to use these to first make sure the animal is viable game (an adult buck, not a doe), then zero in for the perfect kill shot. However, there are fixed magnification sites available, with the advantage being there that the eye is not taxed nearly as hard, and hunters can stay in the game longer hunting equipment.
Also, note that not all scopes are made the same. Figure on spending US $250 for a good one, but the best cost well into the thousands of dollars. Cheaper scopes can be used for smaller game, like squirrels, but is definitely not recommended for larger game. Sightron is a leader in the industry and well known for the quality of rifle scopes it manufactures.
by Jordan Flask
Contrary to popular belief, scopes are not singularly advantageous over other methods of rifle sighting, such as iron sights and aperture sights. Scopes are notably slower than a peep site, and actually less accurate of a sports optic when close cover hunting. The main advantage of the rifle scope is its ease of use, because there is no sight alignment needed to use rifle scopes.
The first consideration when choosing a scope is the magnification to be used. Most rifle scopes have a range setting of between 3X - 9X magnification. Hunters like to use these to first make sure the animal is viable game (an adult buck, not a doe), then zero in for the perfect kill shot. However, there are fixed magnification sites available, with the advantage being there that the eye is not taxed nearly as hard, and hunters can stay in the game longer hunting equipment.
Also, note that not all scopes are made the same. Figure on spending US $250 for a good one, but the best cost well into the thousands of dollars. Cheaper scopes can be used for smaller game, like squirrels, but is definitely not recommended for larger game. Sightron is a leader in the industry and well known for the quality of rifle scopes it manufactures.
by Jordan Flask
2011年2月13日星期日
Choosing Saddles/Horse Tack for Safe Horse Handling
Providing the best care for a horse is not as simple a task as many may think. There are many aspects of safe horse handling that must be adhered to, including choosing saddles/horse tack. All of the particular supplies that one needs to care for a horse are important but knowing how to choose the proper horse tack and saddle means understanding the value of properly measuring for fits. When it comes to horse tack in English or Western varieties, the main difference is that English tack is a bit more complicated to use than Western. By definition, horse tack can include bridles, harnesses, lead ropes, cinches, martin angles, bridles, saddles, saddle pads, halters, breastplates and the girth.
Safe horse handling is more than a notion but less than trouble when choosing saddles/horse tack for the equestrian in question. A perfect match for the horse is a must and this match must be properly maintained which means that equipment must be fitted properly at the start and must be routinely checked for wear and tear as well as replaced when parts have worn down. Nothing is more dangerous than horse handling and riding on a horse that is outfitted with saddle/tack that is in poor condition. Danger exists for both rider and horse to experience injury.
No matter if the choice is the use of Western or English tack, everything a horse is outfitted with is important. Choosing saddles includes a wide range such as pleasure saddles which are used just for leisure riding, side saddles for proper ladies, roping saddles, jumping saddles, military saddles, training saddles and dressage saddles just to name a few. Choosing saddles/horse tack should be specific to the individual horse with regard to personality and temperament. A high spirited horse may fair better with nylon horse tack equipment where as an older mare may do well with leather tack, which is more expensive and requires higher maintenance than nylon but may serve a particular horse with excellence in fit and comfort.
Well fitting, safe tack is most essential for every horse. Using quality equipment means choosing saddles/horse tack that is reliable and built by trusted brands such as Requisite branded products. No matter if the search is for bridle work, bits, girths, irons or leathers and without regard to the budget or classes of use, you can gain access to proper saddles/horse tack and ensure that your horse is outfitted properly each time they leave the barn for training, riding or whatever the case.
Get essential stable supplies online by finding the horse saddles you need and a wide range of other equestrian supplies
Safe horse handling is more than a notion but less than trouble when choosing saddles/horse tack for the equestrian in question. A perfect match for the horse is a must and this match must be properly maintained which means that equipment must be fitted properly at the start and must be routinely checked for wear and tear as well as replaced when parts have worn down. Nothing is more dangerous than horse handling and riding on a horse that is outfitted with saddle/tack that is in poor condition. Danger exists for both rider and horse to experience injury.
No matter if the choice is the use of Western or English tack, everything a horse is outfitted with is important. Choosing saddles includes a wide range such as pleasure saddles which are used just for leisure riding, side saddles for proper ladies, roping saddles, jumping saddles, military saddles, training saddles and dressage saddles just to name a few. Choosing saddles/horse tack should be specific to the individual horse with regard to personality and temperament. A high spirited horse may fair better with nylon horse tack equipment where as an older mare may do well with leather tack, which is more expensive and requires higher maintenance than nylon but may serve a particular horse with excellence in fit and comfort.
Well fitting, safe tack is most essential for every horse. Using quality equipment means choosing saddles/horse tack that is reliable and built by trusted brands such as Requisite branded products. No matter if the search is for bridle work, bits, girths, irons or leathers and without regard to the budget or classes of use, you can gain access to proper saddles/horse tack and ensure that your horse is outfitted properly each time they leave the barn for training, riding or whatever the case.
Get essential stable supplies online by finding the horse saddles you need and a wide range of other equestrian supplies
The Selection of Saddles and Horse Tack
It is important to take your riding conditions, experience level, and passion into consideration when browsing the market for saddles and horse tack. There is no question about the importance of the saddle when it comes to horse riding. As one of the most incremental elements, rooting people to their horses and providing comfort and security, there is a lot of decision making when it comes to purchasing a saddle that you feel benefits you and your horse. The western saddle is one of the most popular saddle styles to invest in. making comfort, quality, and safety a priority is just the tip of the iceberg of what the western saddle embraces.
You are going to want to make your riding style a key deciding factor in choosing saddles and horse tack. People ride horses in a number of different ways and have varying amounts of equestrian experience, so it is often advised to seek professional help when setting out to purchase a saddle. Different saddles will work to position you differently on the horse. As an example, different saddles come in different weight and accommodate different assets. The western saddle focuses on fenders that prevent the straps from pinching your legs and also has an additional knob to hold on to while riding. The English saddle is more lightweight and possesses stirrups for your convenience and comfort, but they are lacking when it comes to fenders. You simply have to weigh out your personal choices and riding style before spending any of your hard earned money.
A significant amount of emphasis is placed on saddle selection; however, there are other factors to consider as well. There is a plethora of horse tack that is necessary for fully embracing an equestrian lifestyle. From stirrups, cinches, reins, the halters, harnesses, bridles, and other items, there are a lot of bases to cover. Although face to face, professional assistance with saddle and tack selection is recommended, another useful tool is the internet. The internet is rich with information on different brands of saddles and horse tack and also provides consumers with reviews and gives them exceptional insight into the equestrian lifestyle. No two people are alike, but no matter what your experience level is, what your budget is, or what your riding style entails, it has never been quite so simple to get your hands on the saddles and horse tack that best correspond to your desires.
There are plenty of horse saddles and other horse accessories available online, including riding wear to make sure you are protected and comfortable when riding.
by Kevin Longworth
You are going to want to make your riding style a key deciding factor in choosing saddles and horse tack. People ride horses in a number of different ways and have varying amounts of equestrian experience, so it is often advised to seek professional help when setting out to purchase a saddle. Different saddles will work to position you differently on the horse. As an example, different saddles come in different weight and accommodate different assets. The western saddle focuses on fenders that prevent the straps from pinching your legs and also has an additional knob to hold on to while riding. The English saddle is more lightweight and possesses stirrups for your convenience and comfort, but they are lacking when it comes to fenders. You simply have to weigh out your personal choices and riding style before spending any of your hard earned money.
A significant amount of emphasis is placed on saddle selection; however, there are other factors to consider as well. There is a plethora of horse tack that is necessary for fully embracing an equestrian lifestyle. From stirrups, cinches, reins, the halters, harnesses, bridles, and other items, there are a lot of bases to cover. Although face to face, professional assistance with saddle and tack selection is recommended, another useful tool is the internet. The internet is rich with information on different brands of saddles and horse tack and also provides consumers with reviews and gives them exceptional insight into the equestrian lifestyle. No two people are alike, but no matter what your experience level is, what your budget is, or what your riding style entails, it has never been quite so simple to get your hands on the saddles and horse tack that best correspond to your desires.
There are plenty of horse saddles and other horse accessories available online, including riding wear to make sure you are protected and comfortable when riding.
by Kevin Longworth
2011年2月10日星期四
Developing Balance: Exercises
Relaxation and balance are the first two skills riders must develop as they work their way up the riding tree. In some ways, they are like that proverbial chicken and egg - which comes first? Without relaxation, it is hard for a rider to stay balanced over the horse. Without good balance, it is hard for a rider to relax. As balance improves, riders develop greater confidence that they are not going to fall off. That mental confidence, in turn, helps minimize the gripping and tension that pushes riders out of the saddle and contributes to being “off balance.”
Staying relaxed on the horse does not mean flopping around in the saddle with loose muscles. Balanced riders must develop a feel for where their body is positioned relative to the horse’s center of gravity (and they must be able to do this while looking straight ahead, not down). They also need to develop “muscle memory,” an unconscious tensing and releasing of the right muscles in just the right increments that enables them to maintain their equilibrium in motion at any gait or on any line they are riding without gripping with their legs or grabbing at the reins to stay on.
There are a number of exercises that riders can use to help themselves develop the “muscle memory” they need to stay in balance with their horses. These include:
I do not recommend riding with bareback pads to develop balance because they encourage gripping with the calves. A good saddle helps the rider sit correctly and riders must learn to sit correctly in a saddle for most competitions. So they want to learn to do this from the start.
Off-the-horse exercises can be extremely helpful in developing balance. Many people cannot stand or jump on one foot or do a simple squat without losing their balance. Any exercise that helps them develop balance on the ground will carry over into their work on the horse’s back.
Squats are a good balance exercise. Riders can start against a wall at first and move away as their strength builds. Eventually, they can work up to a one-legged squat with the other leg extended out in front of them. Trampoline work is also great for balance. Riders can cross train in any of the martial arts, yoga, ice skating, roller blading or any other exercise program or sport that challenges their balance.
Don’t be surprised to find yourself revisiting balance and relaxation issues over and over again as you gain riding experience. Just when you feel relaxed and balanced at one gait, the instructor introduces another and your old issues resurface. Just when you feel relaxed and balanced on one particular horse, you start riding one with completely different confirmation and gaits. Or you move outdoors after a winter of riding inside. Or you start riding on hilly trails after years of ring riding. As you steadily work toward the goal of achieving an independent seat, these changes will upset your balance and relaxation less and less. Just keep riding.
by Faith Meredith
Staying relaxed on the horse does not mean flopping around in the saddle with loose muscles. Balanced riders must develop a feel for where their body is positioned relative to the horse’s center of gravity (and they must be able to do this while looking straight ahead, not down). They also need to develop “muscle memory,” an unconscious tensing and releasing of the right muscles in just the right increments that enables them to maintain their equilibrium in motion at any gait or on any line they are riding without gripping with their legs or grabbing at the reins to stay on.
There are a number of exercises that riders can use to help themselves develop the “muscle memory” they need to stay in balance with their horses. These include:
- Frog position. Riders draw their knees up to help them find the middle of the saddle and to stay there without gripping with their calves.
- Dog position. Riders lift their thighs away from the saddle (like a dog lifting its leg) to help them find the center of the saddle without gripping with their thighs.
- Up two, down one. Instead of normal up-down posting to the horse’s two-beat trot, riders stay up for two beats, sit for one beat, and keep repeating this pattern. This constantly changes the diagonal that the riders are on and prevents them from using the rhythmic thrust of either hind leg as a crutch to maintain their balance.
- Riding without stirrups. Riders can work on this alone but they will achieve faster results if an instructor or knowledgeable riding partner puts their horse on a longe line so they can work without either stirrups or reins. Start at the walk (in both directions) and gradually work up to the trot and canter as balance improves.
I do not recommend riding with bareback pads to develop balance because they encourage gripping with the calves. A good saddle helps the rider sit correctly and riders must learn to sit correctly in a saddle for most competitions. So they want to learn to do this from the start.
Off-the-horse exercises can be extremely helpful in developing balance. Many people cannot stand or jump on one foot or do a simple squat without losing their balance. Any exercise that helps them develop balance on the ground will carry over into their work on the horse’s back.
Squats are a good balance exercise. Riders can start against a wall at first and move away as their strength builds. Eventually, they can work up to a one-legged squat with the other leg extended out in front of them. Trampoline work is also great for balance. Riders can cross train in any of the martial arts, yoga, ice skating, roller blading or any other exercise program or sport that challenges their balance.
Don’t be surprised to find yourself revisiting balance and relaxation issues over and over again as you gain riding experience. Just when you feel relaxed and balanced at one gait, the instructor introduces another and your old issues resurface. Just when you feel relaxed and balanced on one particular horse, you start riding one with completely different confirmation and gaits. Or you move outdoors after a winter of riding inside. Or you start riding on hilly trails after years of ring riding. As you steadily work toward the goal of achieving an independent seat, these changes will upset your balance and relaxation less and less. Just keep riding.
by Faith Meredith
Developing Balance: Using Your Horse’s Feedback
In order to work together harmoniously, both horse and rider need good balance. Riders who do not have a good sense of balance cannot follow a horse’s motion. Unbalanced riders tend to stay on a horse by gripping with their calves, gripping with their thighs, or hanging on the reins. Without good balance of their own, they interfere with the horse’s balance and, as a result, with its motion. Their ability to turn in a good, much less top, performance is severely compromised.
A rider mounted on an oldie goldie school horse or show ring packer can get away with riding off balance. That is why these horses are so prized by instructors. They are tolerant and patient by temperament and athletic enough to compensate for the rider’s faults. Their forgiving nature makes them wonderful as beginner’s mounts or for riders with confidence problems that make it hard for them to relax.
The green baby horse is another story. Even if he has incredibly good natural balance to begin with, any young horse just starting under saddle is going to have a lot of balance issues. He has to learn how to move all over again while carrying weight on his back. Depending on his training background up to that point and his temperament, the young horse may be apprehensive or confused. If his rider is confident, relaxed and has good balance, the horse’s first experiences will be positive. If the rider is unbalanced in any way, however, the young horse may become nervous or frightened. That’s just one of the many reasons why green horses and green riders are not a good match.
The trained older horse that is out of shape or the horse whose muscles are unevenly developed for whatever reason can also have balance issues until their fitness and muscling improves. Under an unbalanced rider, these horses may trip or stumble or develop more sore muscles than necessary as their conditioning program begins.
Understanding how the rider’s balance can affect the horse’s movement can give riders and their instructors important feedback. An off-balance rider typically:
Similarly, the rider who loses balance and falls forward closes that front door. The horse’s inclination to go forward is frustrated. If the horse feels blocked altogether he is likely to stop. These horses almost seem to be saying, “Get your act together if you expect me to carry you around.”
When a rider gets out of balance and shifts his or her weight on to the wrong seat bone, there are usually other things going on that affect balance, too. The rider may also be collapsing her ribs toward her hip. Or he may have let his shoulder move forward, effectively blocking any turn in that direction.
In all of these cases, the horse’s reaction is a clue to the rider’s balance issue. If your horse presents you with any of these reactions, pay closer attention to your own balance and body position before blaming the horse.
When riders first mount, they need to take a moment to position themselves correctly in the center of saddle before moving off. The upper body should be tall but not stiff. Be careful not to hollow the lower back. The rider should feel an equal amount of weight on both seat bones. The joints should all be loose and elastic. This allows the leg to drop and the hip joint to open up. From the side, there should be a plumb line from the rider’s ear through the elbow and hip to the ankle.
Everyone starts off with balance issues and they come up again and again as a rider advances. Use balance exercises both on and off the horse to help you progress and just keep riding.
by Faith Meredith
A rider mounted on an oldie goldie school horse or show ring packer can get away with riding off balance. That is why these horses are so prized by instructors. They are tolerant and patient by temperament and athletic enough to compensate for the rider’s faults. Their forgiving nature makes them wonderful as beginner’s mounts or for riders with confidence problems that make it hard for them to relax.
The green baby horse is another story. Even if he has incredibly good natural balance to begin with, any young horse just starting under saddle is going to have a lot of balance issues. He has to learn how to move all over again while carrying weight on his back. Depending on his training background up to that point and his temperament, the young horse may be apprehensive or confused. If his rider is confident, relaxed and has good balance, the horse’s first experiences will be positive. If the rider is unbalanced in any way, however, the young horse may become nervous or frightened. That’s just one of the many reasons why green horses and green riders are not a good match.
The trained older horse that is out of shape or the horse whose muscles are unevenly developed for whatever reason can also have balance issues until their fitness and muscling improves. Under an unbalanced rider, these horses may trip or stumble or develop more sore muscles than necessary as their conditioning program begins.
Understanding how the rider’s balance can affect the horse’s movement can give riders and their instructors important feedback. An off-balance rider typically:
- Falls behind the motion of the horse,
- Leans too far forward,
- Leans off to one side, or
- Shifts weight onto the wrong seat bone.
- Speeding up, shooting forward or even running away;
- Slowing down or even stopping;
- Turning or drifting when the rider intended to go straight;
- Turning more or less than the rider intended; or
- Turning in a different direction than the rider intended.
Similarly, the rider who loses balance and falls forward closes that front door. The horse’s inclination to go forward is frustrated. If the horse feels blocked altogether he is likely to stop. These horses almost seem to be saying, “Get your act together if you expect me to carry you around.”
When a rider gets out of balance and shifts his or her weight on to the wrong seat bone, there are usually other things going on that affect balance, too. The rider may also be collapsing her ribs toward her hip. Or he may have let his shoulder move forward, effectively blocking any turn in that direction.
In all of these cases, the horse’s reaction is a clue to the rider’s balance issue. If your horse presents you with any of these reactions, pay closer attention to your own balance and body position before blaming the horse.
When riders first mount, they need to take a moment to position themselves correctly in the center of saddle before moving off. The upper body should be tall but not stiff. Be careful not to hollow the lower back. The rider should feel an equal amount of weight on both seat bones. The joints should all be loose and elastic. This allows the leg to drop and the hip joint to open up. From the side, there should be a plumb line from the rider’s ear through the elbow and hip to the ankle.
Everyone starts off with balance issues and they come up again and again as a rider advances. Use balance exercises both on and off the horse to help you progress and just keep riding.
by Faith Meredith
2011年2月9日星期三
Things To Consider While Buying Your First Western Saddle
Riding a horse gives the rider immense pleasure and also has other boons like providing the riders agility and a regular workout. Riding a horse earlier was limited to people having farms or was a proud hobby for the riches. Nowadays the trend has changed and there are many ways you can fulfill the fantasy of becoming a cowboy in action. For an example there are number of clubs that provide the general population with riding lessons. These places are easily accessible for people living in crowded cities and are affordable. You can also be a part of a Polo training club and later on become a rider and a polo player. There are so many benefits of becoming a rider that one can only try becoming one and not think otherwise.
Although with all the above benefits of fitness and a developing a nice body balance, riding a horse only has one drawback that is it's too heavy on your pocket. Riding gives you pleasure and fitness but sometimes there are questions like whether the upkeep cost of a horse is worth the pleasure? The answer is that it is worth every penny you spend. Riding is not as expensive as it looks from far. Smart people can still enjoy it in nearly half the price that other non-smart people pay. Another aspect where people make mistake while spending on the horse is that they spend unwisely while buying the saddle.
The right saddle should be according to your requirement and your comfort. Most of the new riders never thinks about this aspect and rush into buying a saddle. Western saddles are great when it comes to comfort. Western saddles are the one popularized by most of the cowboy movies. Their seat is very comfortable and the look is very classy. English saddles are great when it comes to English horse riding discipline and in many equestrian sports. English saddles are made to endure the horse's movement while jumping and similar movements. Similarly there are many other saddles and each designed for a specific purpose. So it's you duty to understand your requirements and then buy a saddle.
Now the second issue to consider is how to get the best deal on the saddles you like. The American made saddles are very expensive compared to the one that are manufactured abroad. The American made Saddles for sale have different advantages of durability over their foreign counter-parts. The best advantage that Foreign made saddles have over American brands is that they provide the same look and comfort in very low prices. There exist some brands that have the same quality and durability and yet they charge you very less. So the best way to buy saddles is look for them on the Internet over e-stores like e-bay,amazon,etc.. and then buy them directly from the manufacturers.
by Lisa Smith
Although with all the above benefits of fitness and a developing a nice body balance, riding a horse only has one drawback that is it's too heavy on your pocket. Riding gives you pleasure and fitness but sometimes there are questions like whether the upkeep cost of a horse is worth the pleasure? The answer is that it is worth every penny you spend. Riding is not as expensive as it looks from far. Smart people can still enjoy it in nearly half the price that other non-smart people pay. Another aspect where people make mistake while spending on the horse is that they spend unwisely while buying the saddle.
The right saddle should be according to your requirement and your comfort. Most of the new riders never thinks about this aspect and rush into buying a saddle. Western saddles are great when it comes to comfort. Western saddles are the one popularized by most of the cowboy movies. Their seat is very comfortable and the look is very classy. English saddles are great when it comes to English horse riding discipline and in many equestrian sports. English saddles are made to endure the horse's movement while jumping and similar movements. Similarly there are many other saddles and each designed for a specific purpose. So it's you duty to understand your requirements and then buy a saddle.
Now the second issue to consider is how to get the best deal on the saddles you like. The American made saddles are very expensive compared to the one that are manufactured abroad. The American made Saddles for sale have different advantages of durability over their foreign counter-parts. The best advantage that Foreign made saddles have over American brands is that they provide the same look and comfort in very low prices. There exist some brands that have the same quality and durability and yet they charge you very less. So the best way to buy saddles is look for them on the Internet over e-stores like e-bay,amazon,etc.. and then buy them directly from the manufacturers.
by Lisa Smith
Why your child should ride horses
My daughter's trainer said to me "I know you would rather she have a tennis racquet in her hand, but she has this natural riding ability". Riding becomes a life long passion for some. It is one of the most expensive sports one might be involved in and it could be one of the most dangerous. This life sport impacts a child's physical, mental and emotional well-being. How fortunate the child or adult rider is who can have the privilege of cantering around a large, living animal.
I was once told, by a Horsie Dad, that sailing was more dangerous but I told him that he was wrong. Horseback riding is physically demanding from raising up the saddle to the withers and then to be doing the half seat in the ring. It improves coordination and balance. Few sports exercise or make demands, bilaterally, on the body. Horse back riding is one of the sports that does.
Emotionally, riding can build character. It makes a child be and feel more responsible. They are accountable for this huge 1000 pound breathing creature. They learn empathy for the friend who has just fallen off, or the one who missed the course at the show. They mentor younger kids around the barn and that builds self confidence. They exchange and interact with adults and this only serves to increase their social skills. They may learn to cope with the pressure of having all eyes on them while parents and siblings watch from the barn's fence or ringside at a competitive finals.
The riding lesson forces them to focus on riding basics. They are challenged to take risks. They meet new people and travel to new places.
Should they elect to compete at a schooling show or a rated show, they need to learn how to be a gracious loser. They may have to learn to handle disappointment or celebrate achieving a goal after committing themselves to work hard all year round.
They are lifting, riding, feeding, falling, eating, cleaning, mucking, traveling, getting up early, organizing themselves. It is different than soccer and field hockey and more like flying!
by Cathleen Marsh
I was once told, by a Horsie Dad, that sailing was more dangerous but I told him that he was wrong. Horseback riding is physically demanding from raising up the saddle to the withers and then to be doing the half seat in the ring. It improves coordination and balance. Few sports exercise or make demands, bilaterally, on the body. Horse back riding is one of the sports that does.
Emotionally, riding can build character. It makes a child be and feel more responsible. They are accountable for this huge 1000 pound breathing creature. They learn empathy for the friend who has just fallen off, or the one who missed the course at the show. They mentor younger kids around the barn and that builds self confidence. They exchange and interact with adults and this only serves to increase their social skills. They may learn to cope with the pressure of having all eyes on them while parents and siblings watch from the barn's fence or ringside at a competitive finals.
The riding lesson forces them to focus on riding basics. They are challenged to take risks. They meet new people and travel to new places.
Should they elect to compete at a schooling show or a rated show, they need to learn how to be a gracious loser. They may have to learn to handle disappointment or celebrate achieving a goal after committing themselves to work hard all year round.
They are lifting, riding, feeding, falling, eating, cleaning, mucking, traveling, getting up early, organizing themselves. It is different than soccer and field hockey and more like flying!
by Cathleen Marsh
2011年2月8日星期二
Rifle Scopes Reticles
A reticle is the pattern (which can vary) placed in the eyepiece of the scope which establishes the gun's position on the target. Reticles can be made from fine wire or etched into the glass itself. Reticles come in a wide variety of variations that range from simple traditional style crosshairs all the way to illuminated mil dots (short for military dot). Here are some examples of different reticles:
These represent a small sample of reticles that are currently available today. Some rifle scope manufacturers produce their own specialized reticles. The reticle in the image above marked as "Firefly®" is a specialized illuminated model produced by Bushnell®.
In the grand scheme of things reticles probably won't play a huge role in your scope selection decision, but it can be important. Make sure you choose a reticle that works your specific type of shooting. For long range shooting or hunting (+400 yards) or long range competitive shooting, consider a reticle without a dot.
At longer ranges with small targets, the dot can actually cover up the target. A good friend of mine hunts prarie dogs at long range and purchased a very expensive scope with a mil-dot reticle. At long ranges, he found that the reticle dot was actually larger than the prairie dogs and covered them up.
extract from: www.rifle-scope-guide.com
Nightforce Scopes
Nightforce Optics was found in 1992 and is based in Orifino, Idaho. Unlike most rifle scope manufacturers, Nightforce entered the riflescope market in a somewhat unique way.
In 1992, Nightforce set out to build the best rifle scope on the market. Instead of entering the market with an affordable line of scopes to build a customer base, Nightforce jumped right into the high end precision shooting market.
Their approach was to build a top of the line scope from the ground up using the best materials and workmanship. Each scope is basically hand assembled in the Idaho production facility. Before the scope even makes it to the testing and quality control phase of production, it has to pass a rigorous 70 point checklist. After that each scope is hand checked for craftsmanship and performance.
Nightforce utilizes some of the most grueling quality control measures that exist in the rifle scope market. If a part or component is off by so much as 1/30th of an inch (about the width of a eyelash), it's deemed to be defective. This commitment to quality has quickly moved Nightforce to the forefront of precision rifle scopes.
When the company first started producing scopes, they were designed to target the needs of military special forces and law enforcement SWAT agencies who needed the most dependable and best performing rifle scope they could afford. Over time, the company has added additional rifle scope models that are designed for other uses like long range hunting and competitive benchrest shooting.
The Nightforce line is really designed for the serious shooter, military or law enforcement professional, or serious hunter. It's not priced or produced for the weekend hunter.
Just to give you some idea of the quality and accuracy associated with a Nightforce scope, there are a number of existing world record scores in precision long range shooting that were done with a Nightforce; including several world records in .50 B.M.G. 1000 yard benchrest.
Having had the chance to own and shoot a Nightforce myself, I can tell you that they are nothing short of amazing. Once you try one, I almost guarantee you will want one. They certainly aren't cheap, but are one of the most well built scopes I've ever seen. With Nightforce, you aren't buying a name, you are buying performance.
Here are a couple of Nightforce scopes that are currently for sale. If you don't see the model you are looking for, please consider using our "Search" function on the upper right side of the page.
extract from: www.rifle-scope-guide.com
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